Esquire magazine yesterday named the new, revamped and more approachable Lemaire restaurant at The Jefferson Hotel as one of the best new restaurants of 2009.
The restaurant, which reopened in July after closing for a redesign, made it on the list with restaurants from cities including Los Angeles, Atlanta, Las Vegas, New York and Cleveland. Two smaller cities -- Bedford, N.Y., and Yountville, Calif. -- also are on the list.
"I was kind of overwhelmed at the news of it," Lemaire executive chef Walter Bundy said. "I hope it makes a statement that even being in a smaller-tier city, we can compete with the big guys.
"We hope people know they can come to Richmond for history and great food and beverage."
The announcement was made last night in New York.
The list of the 20 best new restaurants in America will be featured in the November issue of Esquire, on sale Oct. 13.
Esquire's food and travel correspondent John Mariani said Bundy's dishes were "proof yet again that Southern cooking long ago moved past [Food Network chef ] Paula Deen's 'Y'all want s'more gree-uts.'"
Annika Stensson, director of media relations at the National Restaurant Association, said the Esquire ranking is positive for the restaurant and the region.
"It can't be anything but good," Stensson said.
Lemaire closed in January and vowed to come back as reinvigorated restaurant, accessible to more diners and featuring a bar.
Gone are the high-brow prices that once occupied the menu. Prices for appetizers start at $5, and entrees do not cost more than $30.
"Essentially we're doing the same quality of food but losing the stuffiness and the pretentiousness of the old Lemaire and making it more affordable," Bundy said.
For 10 years, Lemaire earned the fivediamond award from motor club AAA. The restaurant didn't participate in the ratings in 2007 or 2008.
Esquire's listing "definitely validates a lot of the energy, work and dedication the team has put into the process," said Ben Eubanks, the Jefferson's director of restaurants and wine director.
Mariani, who has been Esquire's food critic for more than 25 years, paid a visit to Lemaire after it had been open only three to four weeks, Eubanks said.
The restaurant was busy and trying to get into the rhythm of a new operation. Only after the meal did Mariani ask to meet with Eubanks and Bundy.
"It helped us kind of wipe the sweat off our brows, [that] he had a good experience," Eubanks said.
Contact Emily C. Dooley at (804) 649-6016 or edooley@timesdispatch.com.
Email
Facebook
Google
Twitter
Favorites
More
Advertisement