SLIDESHOW: Best restaurants of 2008
Yeah, it's New Year's Day, and I know you made those resolutions, what, back in mid-October? You're going to start eating more healthfully after the holidays. Uh-huh. You're going to limit dining out to only a few times a month. Sure. And didn't you say something about cooking more meals at home? Good luck with that.
Hey, I'm not trying to rain on your New Year-New You parade, but I have 10 very good reasons why I don't think you're gonna stick to those resolutions. Let's call them Richmond's 10 best new restaurants of 2008.
You're lucky this time. I'm only reminiscing about the new guys, those places that either didn't exist or had barely made it out of their soft opening when the last ball dropped in Carytown.
Please stop worrying about all the alcohol calories you put away last night, and come with me as I relive our great city's newest culinary gems (in order of opening).
LuLu's 21 N. 17th St. (804) 343-9771 www.lu-lusrichmond.com
Sure, Steve Jurina, the man who made the words "Millie's" and "brunch" one and the same, opened LuLu's in late 2007, but it wasn't until early last year that its popularity exploded. His kitschy, industrial-meets-sleek Farmers' Market eatery has become a no-fail outlet for gussied-up comfort food and laid-back barside lounging. LuLu's has a hip serenity to it, which is further defined by its genuinely awesome wait and bar staff.
Cafe Rustica 414 E. Main St. (804) 225-8811
When chef Andy Howell, the big man with the big sense of sarcasm, opened this cozy establishment downtown, Richmond food lovers tired of carbon-copy Fan District-style menus scored a big win. Where else can you nibble on an ever-changing cheese plate, then down a scallop, shrimp and crab cake followed by a heaping plate of unabashedly robust sauerbraten, the whole time barely putting a dent in your wallet? Not surprisingly, Café Rustica has garnered a loyal fan base in love with its creative cuisine and off-the-cuff atmosphere.
Verbena 2526 Floyd Ave. (804) 359-3122 www.verbenarichmond.com
David Bess, he of late night hotspots Cha Cha's Cantina and The Lucky Buddha, proved his multifarious restaurateurship by hiring chef Todd Richardson and transforming the lovingly dated building on the corner of Floyd and Robinson into a casually elegant display of copper and dark wood and coolly balanced combinations of just-different-enough edible intrigue. The foie gras of the day, for example, ranges from a BLT version to a dessert-like treat served atop homemade granola and pumpkin purée. Fine dine downstairs or share small plates in the V Lounge upstairs. Either way, Verbena delivers.
The Halligan Bar & Grill 3 N. 17th St. (804) 447-7981 www.thehalliganbar.com
What goes better with a hefty pile of briny, tomato-kissed pulled pork and hand-cut fries than a fireman-themed wonderland complete with 1973 Seagrave fire engine with working lights and siren? I know, I can't think of anything either. Since opening day, Halligan has been not only mecca for finger-licking barbecue fans but also a community gathering spot for some of Richmond's finest men and women in uniform.
The Phoenician 4401 W. Broad St. (804) 359-5590 www.thephoenicianrestaurant.com
This spring, local Mexican food addicts, myself included, were sad to hear Naji Kadi, owner of La Casita, was closing his Mexican mainstay's West Broad Street location. But when he debuted a Lebanese hotbed of tabbouleh, kibbeh and shawarma in its place, I didn't hear any complaining. One step inside this moody, Middle Eastern oasis of shimmering golds, plush burgundies and scads of grapevines, who needs a plane trip to Beirut?
The Black Sheep 901 W. Marshall St. (804) 648-1300 www.theblacksheeprva.com
It's not often you find Southernand New Orleans-inspired fare that sings of freshness and homemade love, servings best described as monumental and more than reasonable prices all in one place, but Kevin Roberts and Amy Hess have managed to pull all this off with The Black Sheep, their tiny Carver gem. Stop in early for a breakfast of fried catfish topped with crawfish hollandaise, and stay right on through dinner where homemade chicken and herb dumplings will leave you reeling.
Sushi O 1228 Alverser Plaza (804) 897-9878 www.sushiova.com
The Midlothian area has slowly but surely been gaining ground in the Richmond dining scene, but major advancements were made with the summer opening of Sushi O, the latest elegantly modern Japanese sanctum brought to you by Chris Tsui, the mastermind behind Osaka Sushi. Sushi O's balanced menu of creative sushi and high-quality meats, posh digs and stellar martini list are worth a visit regardless of what side of town you live on.
Mezzanine 3433 W. Cary St. (804) 353-2186 www.mezzanine3433.com
If you've never tasted the difference eating fresh, local ingredients can make, owners Randy O'Dell, Patrick Stamper and chef Todd Johnson are here to show you. Mezzanine's menu is based solely on what's in season and has the ever-changing chalkboard menus to prove it. Sit barside and enjoy more than 25 wines by the glass, or grab a booth upstairs and relish in the refreshing zing of one of the best Thai green curries I've tasted both in and outside of Carytown.
Islamorada Fish Company 11550 Lakeridge Parkway, Ashland (804) 496-4800 www.fishcompany.com
Yes, it's a chain restaurant. Yes, it's attached to Bass Pro Shops. Yes, it's a bit over the top in every way, from floor-to-ceiling aquarium to 2-plus hour waits. But I'd like to see you try not to enjoy this reasonably priced, comfortably casual seafood haven. After a jaunt through the Disneyland that is Bass Pro, I'm sure you'll have no problem putting away mountainous plates of crispy fish'n' chips or more upscale dishes, such has blackened tilapia with lobster cream.
Stronghill Dining Company 1200 N. Blvd. (804) 359-0202 www.stronghillrestaurant.com
Stronghill may be the youngest restaurant on this list, but don't think you won't find experience here. Chef Owen Lane -- my vote for Chef of the Year, if there was such a thing -- helped make Helen's, Michelle's at Hanover Tavern and The Track "it" spots during his tenure with delectably creative menus of Southern-inspired dishes. His pan-seared scallops are to die for, but save room for homemade ice cream in flavors such as banana nut bread. Night owls will love Monday's Pin Up Night with live music and specials.
Dana Craig is restaurant reviewer for The Times-Dispatch. Contact her at danacraig@timesdispatch.com.
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