Black Sheep fuses Cajun and Creole with down-home goodness

• SLIDESHOW: Check out more photos of Black Sheep and listen to Dana Craig's review

Quality and quantity rarely go hand in hand.

But at The Black Sheep, Carver's newest eatery, there's so much of both I don't know how owners Kevin Roberts and Amy Hess fit all this goodness in the restaurant's 30-seat space.

It's not often you find Southern- and New Orleans-inspired fare that sings of freshness and homemade love, servings best described as monumental and more than reasonable prices all in one place.

Situated near Virginia Commonwealth University, The Black Sheep successfully caters to the varied needs of its eclectic neighborhood. Students sick of fast food can stop in for takeout cooked with care. Locals (or those from all over the city) can indulge in a leisurely meal of soul-warming favorites dressed up with innovative accents.

In short, don't come here looking for the expected. In fact, considering Roberts' and Hess' restaurant experience, expected is out of the question.

Chef Roberts' Richmond résumé includes Bamboo Café, Amici, The Frog and the Redneck, Acacia, Kuba Kuba, theExecutive Mansion -- the list goes on. But his Creole/Cajun culinary style comes from time spent under James Beard-recognized chef Frank Brigtsen while living in New Orleans.

Hess, who runs the front of the house, perfected her service skills at the New Orleans' renowned Palace Café.

Breakfast, served until 2 p.m., boasts such temptations as Black Sheep French Toast ($6), chocolate hazelnut spread sandwiched between buttered and griddled French bread and drizzled with warm orange syrup.

Lunch and dinner hours bring the Bridge Club ($6), a homemade pimento cheese sandwich, and (Where's the Beef?) Stroganoff ($8), a vegetarian take on the classic.

But I found The Black Sheep's most defining menu items to be its battleship sandwiches ($7-$11). Think of a foot-long sub doubled. Lose the soft sub roll for an oversized crusty (and most importantly sturdy) baguette shipped in fresh from La Brea Bakery in California.

Forget basic deli meats. These monsters boast everything from grilled eggplant to grilled mahi mahi and even fried chicken livers.

We attempted to do battle with the USS Monitor ($9), but this awe-inspiring behemoth of Swedish meatballs, sautéed mushrooms, gravy, farmer's cheese, green onion, shredded cabbage and sliced tomato did us in barely a third of the way through.

"But wait," I thought. "This isn't just a meal. This is work. I have a mission, a mission of menu exploration!"

This battleship would not sink me, so for you, dear readers, I pushed forth with a renewed sense of duty -- must . . . eat . . . more . . .

In addition to filling, The Black Sheep's Gumbo Z ($4, shrimp or crabmeat $2 extra) -- a traditional green gumbo made with kale, turnip greens, collard greens, green onions, you name it -- was a poetic ode to the value of fresh ingredients.

Blue Ribbon Pork ($13) featured two massive pork cutlets panéed (one of those only-in-New Orleans terms meaning breaded and fried) and topped with thin-sliced Virginia ham and Swiss cheese. Served atop buttered egg noodles, peas and carrots, it was a testament to the art of balancing flavors.

Entrees come with a choice of sides, which include New Orleans dirty rice, homemade bread and butter pickled vegetables and deviled eggs.

Deviled eggs?! How often do you see those on a menu? Based on Roberts' mother's recipe, they could give any good Southern woman's version a run for their money, including my mother-in-law's. (Don't worry, Pat, yours still hold a place in my heart.)

Tempted by a deli case full of homemade desserts, we settled on peanut butter pie ($4). Fluffier than most and topped with a generous layer of chopped peanuts, it would have been perfect had the bottom layer of fudge not been so teeth-achingly sweet.

We washed all this down with the help of The Black Sheep's unique bottled brew list ($2.50-$3.50), which includes Abita Amber and Turbodog, Olde Richmond Batch No. 11 IPA and Blue Mountain Rockfish Wheat. A small wine list ($4-$6 a glass, $12-$28 a bottle) is also available.

Roberts and Hess have created an eatery that combines quantity and quality, down-home and dynamic and, based on its funky knickknack décor, eclectic with inviting. I've never loved leftovers so much. dcraig@timesdispatch.com.