Dining Out: The Belvidere at Broad restaurant review

I have no idea what's in the water these days, but Richmond's new restaurant scene is obsessed with the letter "B." From Belle Vie, The Boathouse, Bouchon to Balliceaux, the latest restaurant chatter is one big exercise in alliteration.

Lost somewhere in this mix is The Belvidere at Broad, a new spot at the west end of the First Friday dining lineup. I say lost because my regular sources of restaurant gossip -- foodie friends, alert readers, chatty servers haven't been saying much about this three-month-old eatery.

Sometimes ignorance is bliss, and in this case, I'm glad I didn't know what I was getting into before my recent visit to The Belvidere. As our meal progressed, each new discovery made our experience that much better.

The Belvidere is owned by David and Julie Hassen, a husband-and-wife team who wanted to create a downtown restaurant with a Fan bar vibe, only with a different take on the menu. Think vegetarian-friendly using local ingredients accented by global flavors and French culinary techniques.

If we're going to continue this "B"theme, you can add beer to The Belvidere's list of strong points, despite it trying not to focus too heavily on the bar aspect. Options include Belhaven Scottish Ale, Ayinger Bräu-Weisse, Orval Trappist Ale and even a gluten-free option. Samplers of three beers of your choice are $7.

Lucky for us, we bumped into a friend who had just finished the applewood-smoked salmon appetizer (smoked in-house) and gave it a glowing review. So we started with the trio sampler ($14), which included the salmon, Maryland crab cakes and bruschetta.

She was right. The salmon was great. It had a nice flake and a woodsy, but not overpowering, smoky undertone. Dollops of creamy dill sauce added the right amount of piquant pizazz.

The crab cakes were not only gluten-free but also pure jumbo lump meat. The bed of tangy Asian slaw was a successful addition, but the cakes could have used a touch more seasoning.

Served in a small ramekin with a side of crostini, the bruschetta was definitely fresh but, like the crab cakes, lacking that wow factor.

What I like about The Belvidere's menu is that sandwiches and burgers hold their own against more sizable options, such as sake-and ginger-glazed grilled salmon ($18).

The grilled ahi tuna sandwich is gussied up with Sriracha aioli ($10), and the turkey and white bean burger ($9) is served on ciabatta with caramelized onions, roasted red pepper and feta.

Even though I'm not a vegetarian, I was thrilled by the organic vegetable lasagna ($15). Made with gluten-free brown rice noodles and loaded with hefty layers of grilled veggies, it was as filling as it was fresh and flavorful. The leftovers were even better the next day.

Citrus-grilled free-range chicken ($15) also was outstanding. I don't usually order chicken in fear of boredom, but the thick-sliced medallions were so moist, I won't look at chicken the same again. Though I couldn't taste much citrus, the mushroom topping combined with the pool of pan sauce added a rich savoriness that enhanced the oh-so-buttery, gluten-free mashed potatoes.

We didn't have room for dessert, but after our neighbor's "When Harry Met Sally" reaction to the dark chocolate brownie, we ordered one to go. Who knew that massive chunks of chocolate chips nestled in a moist brownie topped with Bailey's dark chocolate whipped cream could make such a great breakfast?

Service was great throughout our meal, although it did take a long time to get our entrées. However, the menu states, "Please allow extra time for your meal, as we insist upon using only the freshest ingredients cooked to your specifications." Can't really complain there.

The Belvidere is the perfect bookend to Broad Street's quickly expanding restaurant options. Whether it's First Friday or simply the first day you've dined out this week, The Belvidere's laid-back coziness fills the bill for vegetarians and carnivores alike.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at dcraig@timesdispatch.com. Follow her at http://twitter.com/danacraigrtd.