Dining Out Review: Bonvenu

If you've strolled through Carytown in the past few months, perhaps you've noticed Bonvenu, the nouveau-American restaurant that recently opened in the former home of The Track.

Perhaps you've wondered what its name means. Perhaps you've hoped I'd tell you.

Well, you're in luck. Thanks to the Internet, I discovered that "bonvenu" means "welcome" in Esperanto, a made-up language that combines elements of Romance, Germanic and Slavic vernaculars to formulate an unofficial second way of communicating among the world's diverse cultures.

Bonvenu, Bonjour, Bon Jovi -- I don't care what you call it. Bonvenu couldn't be a more, well, welcome addition to Carytown.

If you're starving after a day of shopping with girlfriends at Cary Street's many boutiques, or you're filling up before a night of shot-taking at New York Deli or you're enjoying a quiet meal with old friends before a Byrd Theatre flick, Bonvenu has you covered.

Its conservatively cosmopolitan menu takes approachable bases, such as scallops, lamb and crab cakes, and dresses them up with a range of worldly influences. Nothing too out there but just enough to keep things interesting.

For example, spicy broccoli rabe is invigorated by lemon chive butter, mashed potatoes are jazzed up with marscapone, and pork chops get dressed up with tasso ham and honey caramelized onions.

Although it's not too unlike several upscale Fan restaurants, Bonvenu adds depth to Carytown's increasingly multifarious dining options.

If a quick perusal of the menu isn't welcoming enough, one step inside the door should be. The bright, open dining room is alivewith color.

Brick red wainscoting offsets light wood booths as a myriad of vibrant paintings dot the warm beige walls. If you're used to the dark, dated interior of The Track, Bonvenu's liveliness will surprise you.

Its wine list (glasses $7-$12, bottles $24-$135) is as accessible as its environs and boasts varietals from Spain, France, Australia, Oregon and beyond.

On a recent Friday, a girlfriend and I started with a couple of appetizers -- a beggar's purse with tasso ham, crab and chevre ($11) and crispy calamari ($8).

The bits of cured, smoked pork shoulder added depth to the puff pastry's creamy filling. Herbed lemon crème fraiche accented each bite with a tangy endnote, quickly sending this to the top of my "favorite appetizers in Richmond list."

Crispy as advertised and not at all rubbery, the calamari needed a squirt of lemon to step it up a notch, especially considering that the accompanying marinara and remoulade sauces were average. However, the portion was quite generous.

Bonvenu's entrées range from vegetarian-friendly mushroom ravioli with mushroom ragout and creme fraiche ($17) to a peppercorn-crusted rack of lamb ($29). We opted for blackened scallops ($24) and marinated beef tenderloin served with Gorgonzola cheese and sautéed vegetables over pasta ($22).

The five large scallops were perfectly cooked and invigoratingly seasoned. The spices tantalized the taste buds but quickly overwhelmed all else as I neared the last few bites.

Accompanying caramelized onion rice was flavorful, but the sweet flavor of the onions tasted discordant, as if they had been added at the last minute rather than incorporated throughout the cooking process.

Flaunting enticing charred edges, the beef tenderloin strips were a surprise hit. I feared the pasta would be bland, but the combination of appropriately intense Gorgonzola and sweet onion cream sauce bound everything together into a richly delicious adventure.

Each staff member we encountered, from the time we stepped in the door to when we signed the check, was warm and down-to-earth. Our hostess embraced a genuine sense of bubbliness, while our server worked the room effortlessly.

Whether you're looking for fine dining or low-key noshing at the bar, Bonvenu embodies a laid-back sense of accessibility. There are still a few kinks to work out, but I'm sure Bonvenu will be a bona fide mainstay in no time.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig has been reviewing restaurants for The Times-Dispatch since 2004. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at dcraig@timesdispatch.com. Follow her at http://twitter.com/danacraigrtd.