Dining Out Review: Aziza's on Main

I do everything in my power to check my preconceived notions at the restaurant door.

But I'm not going to lie. A small deli rumored to have outstanding Lebanese staples, such as tabbouleh and hummus, is not a place I would expect to pull off an intimate dinner complete with candlelight and rack of lamb.

However, when it comes to culinary feats, "Prove Me Wrong" is one of my favorite games to play. And Aziza's on Main has hit and scored, for the most part.

Brought to you by Billy Fallen, of Billy Bread fame, and his mother, Rusty, Aziza's pays homage to Billy's grandmother, the restaurant's namesake, who served Lebanese delicacies in Shockoe Bottom in the 1950s and'60s.

While Aziza's has been open for more than a year, its focus has been lunch, although the grilled sandwiches as well as Lebanese potato salad, cinnamony koosa (beef-and rice-stuffed squash) and grape leaves have been praised by local diners and fellow critics alike.

Not long ago, Aziza's expanded its hours to include dinner Thursday through Saturday nights. I assumed that the dinner offeringswould go the Lebanese route, with tantalizing entrées, such as kibbeh or kebabs, but Aziza's dinner menu is more of an amalgamation of Lebanese-inspired appetizers, soups and a rotating list of four or five proteins ($17 each).

Recently, main dishes have included monkfish, veal scallopine, New York strip and wild Scottish salmon. Preparation details are not listed on the menu, but, trust me, let Billy do his thing. His simple yet dynamic seasonings shouldn't be augmented by the persnickety diner.

Accented by tin ceilings, exposed brick and local pottery, the intimate dining room with small bar is the atmospheric opposite of the brightly lit deli, which casts a warm glow through the connecting brick archways.

To complement the upscale atmosphere, Aziza's wine list ($16.75-$79.99) is bigger than you'd expect and includes varietals, such as Cakebread Cab ($75), Soter North Valley Pinot Noir ($42) and Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay ($28.95).

Dinner appetizers, including Gorgonzola with pear and honey ($6) and tuna, white beans, basil, lemon and olive oil ($7), should be viewed as tapas. Splitting a few is more than enough for a meal.

The roasted eggplant purée over crostini ($6) was extraordinary. Tangy with a delayed kick of spiciness, each bite held a different dynamic. Shaved Parmesan added a snap of sharp saltiness.

Chickpeas, chorizo and spinach with boiled egg ($8) was also invigorating. The chickpeas took on the spicy smokiness of the chorizo while the spinach and egg were chopped and incorporated, making this a warm, hearty filler.

While the starters were huge, I was dismayed by the size of the main entrées. Mahi-mahi seasoned just to the brink of overwhelming still managed to allow the flaky fish's natural flavors to shine.

The rack of lamb also was a small portion, but the charred exterior and rosy pink meat were clear examples of a deft hand in the kitchen.

Sides ($4 each) include white beans and pancetta and warm mushrooms, but I highly recommend the tabbouleh. Bursting with mint, parsley, lemon juice and onion, it is the essence of fresh.

If you have room, desserts include banana pudding pie and apple walnut coffeecake. But do not miss the homemade cream puff ($4) topped with fudgelike milk-chocolate icing. As my witty dining companion said later, "Cream puff? That was a dream puff."

Though I was disappointed with a few aspects of Aziza's -- one overwhelmed yet friendly server trying to keep up with a full house, small portions where I expected larger ones and a decrease in Lebanese influence in the dinner menu -- I can't wait to see where it goes from here, hopefully starting with dinner every night of the week.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig has been reviewing restaurants for The Times-Dispatch since 2004. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at dcraig@timesdispatch.com. Follow her at http://twitter.com/danacraigrtd