Dining Out: At Zeus, elegant cuisine at unpretentious setting

Ah, prom — that magical night in a teenager's life where glitz, glamour and permission to stay out late come together in a hairsprayed and sequined blur of memory making.

Reservations are made at "fancy" restaurants for the first time. The nervous jitters of the impending silverware mishaps that go along with figuring out how one is supposed to act at a nice restaurant are palpable.

These memories came flooding back to me during a recent visit to Zeus Gallery Café, the long-established yet somewhat secret Museum District hideaway known for its eclectic take on New American cuisine.

As I stood under the restaurant's awning in a soggy raincoat waiting for my date to park, I was shuffled aside by a driver with a massive umbrella escorting a lass to a gleaming limo that blocked traffic on Belmont Avenue.

Shimmering and coiffed, she was the antithesis of our flip-flops and jeans. That moment couldn't have represented more clearly why I keep returning to restaurants like Zeus Gallery Café.

A tiny spot with black-and-white-tiled tables and servers wearing motorcycle boots and sundresses, Zeus Gallery could be considered "fine dining" by only looking at its menu, but one visit reveals that elegant cuisine doesn't have to come with pretentious settings.

Zeus Gallery's chalkboard menu changes regularly but always features a lineup of universally appealing favorites jazzed up with seasonally creative accents. Recent entrees included roasted scallops with hen of the woods mushrooms, celery root puree and warm truffle vinaigrette ($22.95) and a grilled N.Y. strip with fried shallots, mustard butter and red wine sauce ($29).

Wines, also listed on two chalkboards (one for whites, one for reds), range from everyday to intriguing with a healthy variety in between. You can make wine pairings an integral part of your meal or simply order a glass of whatever strikes your fancy.

When I first wrote about Zeus in 2006, I couldn't stop raving. While our recent visit was good, it did have a few mishaps, mostly easily fixable issues with our appetizers. Considering that our entrees were out of this world, I was surprised at the inconsistency.

Fried oysters ($12.95) were served in a mini cast-iron pan with a side of spicy mayo, which our server warned was quite intense. The breading was heavy and over-salted, but the oysters themselves were tender and flavorful. Unfortunately, the mayo didn't have enough kick to overcome the salt.

Beef carpaccio ($12.95) was topped with a tantalizing combination of peppery arugula, shaved grana padano (semi-aged, hard Italian cheese), tangy capers and fragrant rosemary mustard. I realize beef carpaccio must be kept extremely cold to allow for its signature thin slicing, but Zeus' version needed a little thaw time before serving.

From two ends of the flavor spectrum, our entrees were a much better representation of the standards I expect from Zeus. Beef Wellington ($32), wrapped in a traditional flaky pastry, got an extra boost from prosciutto and porcini, an accent that added robust earthiness to the juicy filet.

My dining companion remarked that it was better than steaks he's had elsewhere, and I couldn't agree more. Perfectly rare in the center, it literally melted in your mouth.

Seared Chesapeake grouper ($26.95) was topped with lemon-rosemary vinaigrette and tangy red bell peppers, a combination I thought might overwhelm the naturally mild fish. Instead, it added zest to the dish by soaking into the bed of roasted potato, another successful accent I normally wouldn't think to pair with seafood.

If you leave Zeus without trying its Belgian chocolate cake ($7.95), you have committed a most egregious crime. Served warm and topped with vanilla ice cream, the rich dessert breaks open to reveal a molten flow of pure, unadulterated chocolate awesomeness.

Over the years, Zeus Gallery Café has solidified its hold in an increasingly unstable restaurant market. Its inventive yet not-too-far-out-of-the-box menu will surely continue to please those clad in sequins or shorts for years to come.