Dining Out Review: Station 2

I used to think restaurants that served mostly one thing were more "grab a bite and move on" kind of places. There's not much there to keep you past the last bite.

But over the last few years, we've seen several specialty menu spots thrive beyond their limited options by creating spaces with true atmosphere — spaces where patrons want to lounge and socialize, not just eat and dash.

City Dogs and Bellytimber Tavern come to mind. While hot dogs and wood-fired pizzas, respectively, might be the initial draw, fun-loving bartenders and laid-back environs keep you there for (several) more rounds.

As of a few months ago, we can add Shockoe Bottom's Station 2 to this list. Located in a renovated fire station, this hip little spot complements its creative burger menu — The Elvis ($10) is topped with peanut butter, grilled bananas and bacon — with a slew of local and regional craft beers and microbrews.

Add to that a chill yet accommodating staff and industrial yet warm vibe, and you've got a hangout that's hard not to love.

On a recent chilly evening, we passed through Station 2's outdoor patio (a surefire hot spot come spring) on the way to the entrance. Inside, a full house of revelers was alive with alcohol-enhanced chatter.

Besides the range of creative draft beers, Station 2 also serves adult milkshakes ($7). What's not to love about bourbon, vanilla ice cream and bits of vanilla bean? After sucking down a Kentucky Vanilla Bean milkshake, I can answer absolutely nothing.

Station 2's appetizers range from deviled eggs ($4) and Spanish olive-white bean hummus ($6) to wings ($7) and local Sausage Craft sausage filled with peppers and cheddar ($6).

My Queens-bred companion asked our New Jersey-born server about Station 2's wet fries topped with smoked Gouda and homemade gravy, leading the two to wax nostalgic about their beloved Northern diners' similarly prepared "disco fries."

Given the decibel level of their excitement, we ordered said fries ($6) along with a fried pickle plate ($4).

While it was hard to tell it was Gouda, the cheese, enhanced by the savory gravy and a good dose of salt, made these piping hot fries one heck of a diet obliterator. The simplicity of whole pickle spears, crispy batter and whole-grain mustard was deliciously comforting.

If you're into locally sourced ingredients, Station 2's char-grilled burgers ($9 each) are made with naturally raised beef from Buffalo Creek in Lexington, and served on bread from Richmond's Lucille's Bakery. Sausage Craft sausage, turkey burgers or black bean burgers can be substituted for ground beef.

With burger toppings ranging from grilled pineapple and wasabi aioli to pepper jack cheese and whole roasted green chile, we deferred to our server's suggestions — the Beerfest (onion straws and beer cheese on a pretzel roll), the Grecian Island (garlic- and oregano-seasoned with olives and feta) and BBQ Barista (coffee-rubbed with smoked Gouda).

The combination of rich, fondue-like cheese, crispy-sweet fried onions and bacon made the Beerfest a hit. However, the roll didn't have the golden brown sheen or deep, yeasty flavor we expected, the only letdown of this calorie fiesta.

The Grecian Island was topped with plenty of feta, Kalamata olives and fresh Manakintowne pea shoots, which paired well with the swipe of tzatziki. Again, the bread let us down. Texas toast could have used a little longer on the griddle for a nice crunch.

The BBQ Barista hit a home run. The coffee rub gave it a deep, almost ashy flavor that magically complemented the bacon, smoked Gouda and smoky barbecue sauce. The soft roll held its own against the additional weight of thick-cut red onions, lettuce and pickles.

Overall, each juicy patty was cooked perfectly to order.

Station 2's well-separated bar boasts only a few TVs, so you don't have to worry about it becoming a sports bar just because it serves burgers. With reasonable prices, good vibes and a fun menu, Station 2 is on its way to becoming a casual, neighborhood staple.