Dining Out Review: Portico

The stone terrace weaves its way across bucolic grounds. Benches strewn with plush blankets surround a stacked-stone fireplace. Piquant aromas emanating from an herb garden mix with those wafting from a small kitchen cottage.

And this is just the outside.

Inside, the twinkle of liquor bottles dances across a dark granite bar. Windows cover almost every inch of wall space, giving those seated at the cozily spaced tables a glimpse of the pastoral landscape outside this quaint country home.

If my editors would allow me, I could turn this write-up on Portico into a two-part series: one focusing on the absolutely stunning landscape and interior design, the other on the simply delicious Italian fare of chef Paolo Randazzo (former owner of Franco's Ristorante and current owner of Sensi).

In Goochland County, Portico retains much of the picturesque allure of Edible Garden, the building's previous tenant, but after extensive exterior and interior renovations, Portico's vibe has a more sophisticated slant.

I won't dispute Richmond's multitude of restaurants with similarly well-crafted menus and décor, but not many give diners an "experience," something more esoteric than the tangible combination of good food and good service.

But at Portico, a meal truly is an experience.

Portico has that certain something that makes it endearing even when every menu item doesn't knock your socks off. Or when the decibel levels are so loud, you practically have to sit on your dining companion's lap to hold a conversation. (Rumor has it Randazzo and his wife, Rhonda, are addressing the noise.)

Portico isn't perfect, but if you go, you'll understand the undeniable appeal I'm talking about.

We made reservations on Opentable.com, a must if you want a table at this already popular spot.

Despite the tight quarters, our server arrived quickly with bread and an insanely wonderful homemade spread. In addition to shallots, garlic and basil, she said it included "a couple of other herbs we felt like grabbing from our garden." Note to chef Randazzo: Please bottle this and sell it.

With such grand environs, Portico could be mistaken as being stuffy or expensive, but it's neither. The menu lists burgers and pizzas alongside stuffed shrimp with Franco's lobster-caper cream sauce ($17.95) and fresh herb-crusted leg of lamb with roasted garlic ($20.95).

Oddly enough, we found appetizers somewhat overpriced while entrees were a complete steal for the quality.

A caponata starter ($7.95) was served atop hearty grilled baguette, but the combination of eggplant, onion, tomato, olives, pine nuts and capers was too cloying. I understand this dish is supposed to be sweet-and-sour, but the sticky sweet balsamic overwhelmed. Still, it was vibrantly colored and textured.

A crab cake ($11.95), on the other hand, was perfectly seared, the delicate flavor of its lump meat complemented by tangy tartar aioli. Unfortunately, the portion was small for the price.

For me, entrees are where Portico shines. Seafood cannelloni ($18.95) were overflowing with crab, shrimp and scallops. Seafood cream, marinara and a gooey blanket of cheese created a rich undercurrent that still managed to let the seafood dominate.

Sautéed scallopine of pork tenderloin ($18.95) was excellent. The thinly sliced pork was tender, enlivened by a savory yet lemony white wine sauce laced with fresh thyme. Buttery mashed potatoes were the perfect sponge for sopping up the pool of sauce.

A deconstructed tiramisu ($6.50) — ladyfingers soaked in espresso and rum and topped with chocolate gelato and mascarpone — was as potent as the original but pleasantly lighter.

As we were leaving, I noticed patrons gathered by the fire, swilling bourbon and chatting in the chilly night air. Considering the patio's popularity in the dead of winter, I foresee Portico being the place to be when temperatures rise. While the taste of the bread's herb spread is still in my mind, perhaps I'll make my springtime reservations now.