Dining Out Review: HogsHead Cafe

Dieters and vegetarians, shield your eyes, because I'm about to get graphic.

I recently heard about an awe-inspiring feat of culinary excess, something so monstrously frightening yet still somehow so very right that I had to taste it for myself.

The item of which I speak involves a hot dog, but not just an ordinary hot dog — a jumbo beef hot dog wrapped in bacon.

But it doesn't stop there. Said hot dog is also deep-fried, topped with a boatload of wood-smoked pulled pork, tangy-sweet barbecue sauce AND homemade cole slaw.

I'll give you a moment to get your salivary glands under control before I tell you where you must go to partake of this celebration of calories.

Good? OK, the place is called HogsHead Café, a six-month-old barbecue restaurant in a small shopping center on West Broad Street.

Run by Powhatan couple Kim and Steve Logue, HogsHead Café squeezes a lot of character into its tiny space. From the outside, it doesn't look big enough to do anything but take-out, but inside, this full-service restaurant serves up mouthwatering barbecue, seafood specials and creative cocktails.

The Logues gutted the former home of Cuisines and installed a tiny bar, dark wood tables with seating for about 34 and plenty of tchotchkes that give clues to their fun-loving personalities — a hockey skate, guitar and old signs with snarky sayings.

The couple had been experimenting with a small backyard smoker for a few years before they decided to bring their smoked meats and homemade sides to the public.

I've often said barbecue is like a religion, with different restaurants' fans fervently defending their spot as "the best barbecue in town," but HogsHead isn't trying to be a barbecue king.

In a recent email exchange, Kim Logue explained the goal is to offer "good, fresh-made food that makes folks happy … without breaking the bank" in a "place where they feel comfortable."

While the barbecue is quite good, HogsHead serves more than just house-smoked meat. Displayed on a handwritten chalkboard, soul-warming specials, such as fried oysters, lobster bisque and corn pudding, are just as tempting.

When I stopped in with three friends, the café's genuinely welcoming vibe was immediately apparent. We received a warm greeting from the two servers, as well as friendly nods from the kitchen crew.

After ordering glasses of wine and sangria, we started with loaded homemade chips ($7.99), although Hog Nachos ($9.49) topped with pulled pork, chili, cheese and fresh jalapeños were hard to pass up.

The crunchy potato chips were topped with thick-cut bacon, shredded cheddar cheese and red and green onions. Sweet barbecue sauce and creamy ranch dressing were drizzled on top with deftness, avoiding a soggy mess.

The chips could have been my meal, but after seeing the smiles on neighboring patrons' faces, I knew to leave room for entrees.

Beef brisket ($15.99, served with two sides) fell apart at the touch of a fork, its thick, charred edges infusing the tender meat with a deep smokiness.

Pulled pork ($11.99, served with two sides) was just as good as the beef. Tableside sauces — both vinegar- and tomato-based — enhanced the flavor, but the meat had so much natural zest we only needed a little.

Our sides of broccoli bake and mac 'n' cheese both toed the line between enticingly rich and surprisingly tangy.

But the aforementioned Hog Dog ($8.99) was by far the most memorable. Served on a sturdy, toasted roll, it was like a seven-layer dip where each bite offered a different sensation — from salty and juicy to mellow and refreshing.

With finger-licking, homemade fare whipped up and served by an enthusiastic staff, not to mention wallet-friendly prices, HogsHead Café better start looking for bigger digs, because I'm not gonna stop raving about that deep-fried hot dog.