Dining Out Review: Parkside Cafe

"I don't eat Indian food. That curry stuff is too spicy."

"Can I bring my husband? He's a strict vegetarian."

"Comfort food is so overdone. I only do exotic."

Isn't organizing a dinner out with a diverse group of friends so much fun?

Whether it's her stifling food hang-ups or his over-the-top foodie pretense, I can't stand a group dinner where I know at least one person isn't happy.

So I'd like to thank co-owner Brian Munford and chef/co-owner Travis Milton for finally opening Parkside Café, Forest Hill's newest dining option. Its deliciously all-over-the-place menu combines Asian, Indian, Mexican and Southern influences so seamlessly, you'll be hard-pressed to find a dining companion who isn't pleased.

Back in the summer of 2009, Munford, chef/owner of the eclectically upscale Patina Grill, and Milton, former chef at now-closed Bottega Bistro, announced their intentions to convert the former Seven Hills Market into a casual restaurant serving cuisine in line with the neighborhood's creative palate ... by November.

Flash-forward two years. Parkside is now open, and yes, friends, it was worth the wait.

We stopped in on a recent Wednesday evening and marveled at the building's makeover. Pale mint walls dotted with gold frames offset rustic wooden booths and long, cushioned benches.

The space feels like a friend's living room, not a restaurant capable of churning out everything from grilled portabella with celery root-hazelnut latkes and Granny Smith applesauce to a pulled pork plate with arugula, queso fresco and red pepper aioli (each $15).

Parkside also serves an array of intriguing beverages, such as homemade blueberry soda ($3), horchata ($4) and eight easy-drinking wines ($5 a glass, $24 a bottle).

While the food is out of this world, the physical menu is hard to decipher. Salads, appetizers and entrees aren't separated, or even grouped, so it took us a minute to realize there were only two starters from which to choose. This is an area where I'd like to see Parkside beef up its selections.

Baked Virginia cheddar with grapes, pickles and grilled bread ($6) was sold out, so we started with the other appetizer, potato and pea samosas ($6). We also ordered an entree of pork chilaquiles ($13) to substitute as a starter.

The three stuffed Indian pastries were delicately flavored, allowing us to customize each bite by dipping the flaky shells in pungently sweet chutney and creamy, herb-laced raita.

Chilaquiles are typically made with scrambled eggs and served during breakfast or brunch, but Parkside's version is perfect any time of day.

Instead of scrambled, a sunny-side-up egg is served atop a casserole-like layering of oh-so-tender pulled pork, tortilla strips, queso fresco and sour cream. Piercing the golden yolk and letting it ooze into the nooks and crannies elevates the dish to a new level of gratifying.

Given the number of excited adjectives our server used, it was clear he was personally acquainted with most everything on the menu, so we deferred to him for entree suggestions — tofu and grilled eggplant in a ponzu reduction ($15) and seared meatloaf ($16).

I'm not a vegetarian, but I adored the tofu. Both naturally sponge-like, the tofu and eggplant soaked up the intensity of the ponzu. Reducing it intensified the honey, citrus and soy, allowing each element to come through with ferocity. Baby bok choy and chilled sesame-ginger soba noodles added an intriguing interplay of texture and temperature.

Studded with carrots, the meatloaf was served with a side of insanely addictive horseradish cream, a simple add-on that made it mouth-watering. Accompanying mac'n' cheese flaunted a tangy bite, but it could have benefited from the crunchy texture of a baked crust.

It's rare that I come across a menu that can successfully satisfy a range of palates, but Parkside Café's thoughtfully diverse offerings do just that, and do so affordably. It might have taken a while to get here, but don't count on Parkside disappearing anytime soon.