Dining Out Review: Sapori Ristorante Italiano

"Joe said it was some of the best linguini with clam sauce he's had, and he's an excellent cook," my father told me, recounting his neighbor's recent visit to Sapori, a new Italian restaurant in Chester.

Flash forward a week or two …

"My doctor's been there, too, and he loved the veal saltimbocca," my dad continued, not so subtly hinting that I should give Sapori a try … and invite him along.

"Fine. Thursday. We'll go," I said, not looking forward to the drive to Chester for what I thought would be a been-there-done-that, mom 'n' pop Italian restaurant.

Although Sapori is owned by a mom 'n' pop, Angela and Giuseppe Amato of Carini, Italy, as well as their two sons, Dario and Luca, any comparisons to your typical spaghetti-and-meatball spot stop there.

Sapori (Italian for "flavors") fuses the Amato family's traditional Sicilian recipes with new-American culinary techniques, resulting in menu items ranging from seafood cannelloni ($17) and rigatoni Bolognese ($13) to cornbread- and pancetta-stuffed pork chops ($18) and grilled rib-eye chimichurri ($17).

Located in Chester's Festival Park, a faux-Main Street-styled community of apartments and shops, Sapori doesn't look like much from the outside.

But inside, the casually chic décor, sleek granite bar and local artwork give the low-lighted space a moody, contemporary vibe. Wednesday night jazz pairs well with a menu full of elegant twists on tradition.

The drink list impresses with a healthy selection of microbrews and craft beers, such as Blue Point Blueberry Ale ($4), Dogfish 90 Minute IPA ($6) and Rogue Chocolate Stout ($8). The small wine list features Sicilian wines and varietals from several Virginia wineries, including Barboursville, Prince Michele and Horton.

During my recent visit, Giuseppe promptly greeted my parents and me with a quiet smile. After a hostess showed us through the nicely spaced dining room, we were welcomed by a server who seemed to be a veteran.

He recommended some of his favorites without forgetting to direct our attention to the homemade desserts, lest we forget to save room.

Appetizers include traditional arancini ($11), rice balls stuffed with Bolognese-style sauce and mozzarella, and bruschetta ($6), but we went with our server's recommendation of shrimp fritters ($8) and couldn't have been more pleased.

The perfectly cooked jumbo shrimp were heavily breaded, yet the batter tasted light, allowing the shellfish flavor to shine. A side of horseradish-tinged cream sauce made this an appetizer I'm still dreaming about.

For entrees, we tried chicken alla griglia ($15), veal saltimbocca ($16) and linguini with white clam sauce ($15), all extremely well-priced.

Although the grilled chicken was a little on the tough side, the toppings of sundried tomatoes, goat cheese and fresh basil from the restaurant's indoor herb garden more than made up for the minor disappointment in texture. The toppings' intense tang was deftly balanced by rich lemon butter sauce.

The veal was well-prepared, although the flavors were a little tame. The prosciutto and fresh mozzarella melted in our mouths while the earthiness of portobello mushrooms quelled the marsala reduction's sweetness. I just wanted it a little more wow.

The linguini with white clam sauce gave me that wow 10 times over. The sauce's garlic was so intense it stung. The traditionally simple preparation properly highlighted the clams' brininess.

I'm so glad we saved room for dessert because the house-made tiramisu ($6) was textbook perfect. The coffee-soaked ladyfingers were so moist they almost dissolved into the luscious brandy cocoa-flavored mascarpone. Heavenly.

When the bill came, I was surprised at how reasonable the prices were.

Despite being hidden in the base of an apartment complex, Sapori livens up the typical Italian dining experience with a creative menu, energetic service and modern environs.

Rating: ***

Where: 3513 Festival Park Plaza, Chester

Phone: (804) 425-4628

Website: saporiflavors.com

Noise Level: average

Vegetarian Options: appetizers, salads, pizza and pasta

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday

Prices: $9-$23

Check for two: $46 (including shared appetizer, two entrees, shared dessert and tax)