Dining Out Review: The Mill on MacArthur

I don't know what's in the water these days, but somehow "Hey, I think I'll open a restaurant!" has become an increasingly popular trend. New restaurateurs are banking casual-eatery success on genuine enthusiasm instead of an understanding of how hard it is to get a restaurant off the ground.

More important than constructing a visually unique space or creating a varied menu both tempting and reasonably priced, restaurateurs need to know their audiences.

Understanding what distinctions the neighborhood wants and tweaking the basic casual-eatery formula to accommodate them can turn an average idea into a local legend with a rabid following.

Although it's been open only three months, I can see The Mill on MacArthur becoming one of North Side's dining mainstays. It's not there yet — inconsistencies in menu execution need to be ironed out — but with fixes, it could be here to stay.

How do I know? I'm a former North Sider.

If you have lived or currently live here, you know this tight-knit, casually eclectic bunch of neighbors has a distinct palate. Local, seasonal and family-friendly fare is what North Siders serve in their homes and expect from their restaurants.

With a menu of sandwiches, pizzas and comforting entrees, many tailored for vegetarians and vegans, The Mill on MacArthur has figured out what the neighborhood wants.

Thoughtful touches make everyday offerings special. Appetizers list scungilli (marinated conch salad, $9) next to chicken tenders ($7). A grilled cheese ($7) includes Swiss, cheddar, caramelized onions and roasted tomatoes. Grilled flank steak ($18) uses all-natural, grass-fed Black Angus. Bev's ice cream and Tall Bike coffee from Lamplighter are served.

The Mill also offers an extensive beer list with options such as Magners Irish Cider and Heavy Seas Loose Cannon IPA (each $4.50). Wine is recently available.

This sounds great, right? Yes, but execution issues are keeping The Mill from reaching its full potential.

A recent dinner started off on a high note with black bean and sweet corn cakes and fried artichoke hearts (each $7). Drizzled with a pucker-inducing lime-cilantro sour cream, the two cakes were creamy inside, crisp outside and perfectly spiced.

The tender artichoke hearts arrived piping hot with just the right amount of breading. Accompanying melted garlic butter was so deliciously intense that — I'm warning you — you should bring mints.

The Mill serves several daily specials, listed on a chalkboard near the bar and on its website. We were instantly drawn to the 9-ounce New York strip ($12) topped with shitake cream sauce.

Here's where execution became an issue. Ordered medium, it arrived almost well-done. The cream sauce was as tantalizingly earthy as we'd hoped, but its main purpose seemed to be covering up the gristle-laced meat. Sugar snap peas coated in smoked balsamic simply didn't work flavorwise.

The Northside pizza ($12), topped with roasted eggplant, baby spinach, fresh mozzarella and a zippy tomato sauce, could have been excellent had the crust not been uncooked in the center.

However, the Kickin' Chicken ($8) sandwich and a side of Greek orzo ($2) gave me hope that The Mill can be great. Warm, floury focaccia held a thinly pounded chicken breast amped up with Montreal seasonings. Melted Gouda mingled with a spicy Cajun remoulade, while juicy tomato slices and local pea shoots added a refreshing burst from the garden.

The Greek orzo was simply perfect. Loaded with feta, artichoke hearts, red onion and red pepper, it was so vibrantly tangy, I wished I'd ordered an extra side.

The Mill is a tiny spot, which is part of its charm. However, as our meal progressed, the place filled up fast, and our server got swamped. Still, she was cheerful and even managed to run after me with the pizza box I'd left on the table.

Despite a few kinks, The Mill can be North Side's next big thing. Considering that the place delivers, too, I'm regretting moving out of the 'hood.