Fresh herbs can add just the right flavor

When it comes to cooking with fresh herbs, Shaun Mercer says you might make an occasional misstep and overzealously season a dish too strongly. "But you're going to have a lot more good meals in the end," said Mercer, of Lavender Fields Farm in Glen Allen, which sells a wide assortment of herbs and holds classes on how to cook with them.

By: Bill Lohmann | Times-Dispatch
Published: April 22, 2009

When it comes to cooking with fresh herbs, Shaun Mercer says you might make an occasional misstep and overzealously season a dish too strongly.

"But you're going to have a lot more good meals in the end," said Mercer, of Lavender Fields Farm in Glen Allen, which sells a wide assortment of herbs and holds classes on how to cook with them.

Fresh herbs are healthy and tasty, and growing your own will save you money, he said.

"Once you've had fresh," said Mercer, "you'll never go back."

At a time when Americans seem to be taking a renewed interest in home gardening, herbs will take center stage this weekend at Maymont's Herbs Galore and More (Saturday, 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m.). The show will feature a plant sale, demonstrations and instruction in the art of growing and using herbs.

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If you're new to growing herbs, you might start with the most popular ones such as -- as the song says -- parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. Cilantro is another favorite because of its use in salsa and other Mexican dishes, but it doesn't grow well in the heat of the summer so Mercer suggested a similar-tasting substitute: Vietnamese coriander, which can handle the heat.

Then, there's basil.

"Every fifth plant sold is basil," Mercer said.

Basil is one of the most versatile herbs, working well with tomatoes, zucchini and in pesto sauces as well as pasta and egg dishes, according to "The Flavor Bible," by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Little, Brown and Company, $35). It's also wonderful on salmon, chicken and pizzas.

If you're stumped as to what sorts of fresh herbs to grow or buy, consider the types of food you like to prepare.

Basil and oregano are classic blends for Italian dishes, said Patricia Stansbury, of Epic Gardens in Bon Air. Sage is often used with poultry. For vegetables, dill goes well with almost anything -- green beans and potatoes are examples -- and tarragon is good, too.

"Mint is wonderful," she said. "You can use it in a lot of different things. I put sprigs of mint in my water bottles because it makes the water taste better -- and it makes people curious."

Because of their water content, fresh herbs are not as intensely flavored as their dried counterparts, which means you must use more of the fresh herbs to reach the level of seasoning you're seeking. It also means you should add fresh herbs toward the end of cooking so their fresh flavor is maintained, Stansbury said.

Contact Bill Lohmann at (804) 649-6639 or wlohmann@timesdispatch.com.