This New Year's, I had the pleasure of visiting one of Virginia's old grand dames, The Homestead in Hot Springs. The hubby and I danced the night away to a three-piece jazz band while working our way through a decadent five-course meal, and I couldn't help but feel transported back to an era where family names like Astor, Rockefeller and DuPont prevailed with dignity.
Perhaps it was the magnificent, chandeliered dining room or the fact that my husband, Tim, looked particularly dapper in his black, single-breasted suit, or maybe it was the unobtrusive way our server managed to slip in with his aluminum crumber and deftly wipe aside any stray bread crumbs. Whatever it was, I've never felt more regal or more Virginian.
The Homestead is about 180 miles from Richmond in the Allegheny Mountains. Its famed natural hot springs have inspired the likes of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington to take a dip, and its main river - the Jackson River - offers some of the best trout fishing in the state.
As a result, fried Allegheny mountain trout is often the dinner of choice. Often lightly breaded and cast-iron fried and topped with little else except a drizzle of butter and fresh sliced almonds, this is what folks come here to eat.
Yet, after sampling other offerings from executive chef Rodger Martin, such as his signature smoked salmon that is house smoked on Bath County grape leaves he collects himself, I was compelled to ask him to donate a recipe for my column.
I like to keep things classic and simple, but there are times when we all need to have our Top Chef moment and re-create an authentic restaurant dish at home. Some restaurant recipes can come across as intimidating or boast ingredients nearly impossible to find or afford (poached lobster or Moulard duck confit anyone?) This can cause the home cook to toss aside the restaurant recipe in favor of cracking open her Good Housekeeping cookbook.
So, when I stressed the importance of accessibility to Chef Rodger, he came through with flying colors, and sent this wonderful recipe for his whimsical version of snapper chowder. Borrowing on the chowder idea, this dish is actually served on a plate, yet boasts all the yummy ingredients typically found in a bowl - corn, potatoes, bacon, broth, and of course, fish.
While this recipe has several steps (remember, this is served at The Homestead), don't let that intimidate you. Also, since this is a recipe designed to be made to order (meaning, the chef makes each plate individually and doesn't rely on pre-prepared ingredients) it serves only one, so you will probably want to double it or split it in half to serve two as an appetizer.
Follow along, step by step, and in the end, you too can be a Homestead chef. Just make sure to have some classic jazz pumping in the background and don your best evening wear. And last but not least, don't forget your crumber.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to info@theaccidentalchef.net or visit www.theaccidentalchef.net.
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