Dining Out Review: The Halligan Bar & Grill

Discovering small local places and sharing their existence with all of Richmond is one of my favorite things about reviewing restaurants.

Many of these cozy holes-in-the-wall exist not because the people behind them want to strike it rich but because they have a passion for showing others a good time by filling their stomachs. This honest love of the job creates the kind of personal service and thoughtful dishes that quickly garner a following of regulars.

But there's an inevitable Catch-22. The restaurant becomes so popular that talk of expansion begins, and the very thing that made it a hit — its sense of authenticity — has the potential to be jeopardized.

This is the fear I had a few months back when The Halligan Bar & Grill, the much-loved, fireman-themed hangout near the 17th Street Farmers' Market, launched a second location in Short Pump's West Broad Village.

Would this new Halligan, nestled among chain restaurants and capable of seating nearly seven times as many people, lose the genuineness owner Shawn Gregory, a Henrico County firefighter, so painstakingly created downtown?

I'm relieved to report that Halligan has made the transition to bigger, suburban digs with only minimal effect to its character. Although it's harder to grab a barstool and gab the night away with your favorite bartender or establish a connection with some of the greener wait staff, the larger space allows for added features sure to guarantee a good time.

Instead of just the side of a fire truck making up the bar, the centerpiece of the new Halligan's dining space is a truck with bar seating surrounding the entire thing. If that weren't cool enough, its roof has been converted into an area for VIP seating, Monday night karaoke and weekend DJs.

Barbecue is still Halligan's forte, but I noticed an entrée section — which includes Firehouse Bar-B-Q Meatloaf ($11.99) and fish 'n' chips ($9.99) — had been added since my last visit downtown.

If you prefer sauce application left to your discretion, be forewarned. Halligan serves its 'cue already dressed in signature Halligan Sauce, a snappy, vinegar-based sauce. But trust the kitchen on this one. After one taste, "too much" will never cross your mind.

The classic pulled pork sandwich ($8.99, platter $10.99) with coleslaw is my favorite. Its smoke-kissed shreds of tender meat often threaten to overtake the sturdy bun in tangy deliciousness. Equally tasty Memphis chicken and Texas brisket are also available as sandwiches ($8.99-$9.99) or on sampler platters ($15.99).

During my most recent visit, I tried the Hose Roll ($13.99), a smoked pork loin stuffed with herbs, sausage, Granny Smith apples and caramelized onions. The stuffing was spot on, combining savory and sweet in perfect harmony. Unfortunately, the meat was a little too dry, but accompanying cornbread with chipotle honey butter made up for some of the disappointment.

Sides ran the gamut. Mac 'n' cheese consisted of penne pasta topped with a cheesy cream sauce and shredded cheese, a preparation I found bland. However, homemade collards packed plenty of pizzazz.

For those who want something a wee bit lighter, I recommend the Frap ($8.99), a tortilla stuffed with smoky chicken, bacon, cheddar, crisp cucumber and ranch dressing.

Grazers will be happy with the large selection of starters. A huge basket of crispy onion rings ($7.95) with spicy dipping sauce is hard not to inhale.

Halligan's wings (six for $6.95, 12 for $12.95) are some of the best in town. Lightly crisp on the outside and extremely meaty, they taste best ordered "fully developed" with house-made buffalo sauce, although "five alarm" hot is available for the strong-willed.

Even though the second location encapsulates a lot of what I love about Halligan, some of the genuineness gets lost in the expansion. But just when I start to dwell, I hear owner Shawn's hearty laugh as he chats up a nearby table.