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Williams: Optimism reigns at 17th Street Farmers' Market

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Rosa Fleming and Evelyn Luceal Allen have been part of the 17th Farmers' Market for generations.


Their father, Thomas Emanuel Carter Sr., brought them to the market as youngsters to sell fruits and vegetables from the back of his truck. For Fleming, that was more than 50 years ago; for Allen, more than 65.


The sisters from Mechanicsville are as equipped as anyone to forecast the fortunes of the market, whose annual grand opening is today.


"I think it's going to be a better year," Allen said. "Having new management down here is really helpful."


A few yards away, market manager George Bolos was too busy to talk as he tended to some last-minute details in preparation for today, as well as Monday's appearance by Democratic gubernatorial hopeful Terry McAuliffe and former President Bill Clinton.


The 17th Street Farmers' Market provides a unique view of Richmond's past, present and future. It's flanked by restaurants featuring global offerings: Thai, Ethiopian, Cuban, British. The façades and rooflines of nearby buildings conjure images of Victorian-era Richmond. You feel part of something substantial and enduring.


And indeed, you are. The market is one of the oldest in the nation -- its roots date to the 1700s. You might say it's a barometer not only of the immediate area, but of Richmond itself. A vibrant market reflects a healthy city.


But as the concept of "buying local" has gained popularity, the 17th Street Farmers' Market has not flourished as much as it might.


Some blame neglect by the prior city administration. Others cite burgeoning competition from an array of farmers markets, including in Oregon Hill, North Side, South Side, western Henrico County, Lakeside and Ashland.


If the competition threatens anyone on 17th Street, they're not letting on. "The more, the better," Allen said.


The sisters have the same view of encroaching development from the proposed $363 million Shockoe Center project, which would include a ballpark across Franklin Street from the market. "It will bring more people in the Bottom," Fleming said, adding that her main concern is adequate parking.


But some threats cannot be denied. Donald Barlow acknowledged one as he sat behind a row of produce that included bunches of pungent-smelling scallions.


"It's been slow but fair, with the economy and everything," said Barlow, who sells produce for Varina farmer Henry Christian. "People are afraid to spend money. As the months go on, things might pick up. I hope, anyway."


Times might seem tough, but the market has endured worse. It has weathered the Great Depression, neighborhood decline and Shockoe Bottom floods.


"The management of the market depends on whether you think it's going to make it or not," Fleming said. She's feeling good about the management. "But I really never give up hope."


There's a lesson in that for all of us.



Contact Michael Paul Williams at (804) 649-6815 or mwilliams@timesdispatch.com.

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