Dining Out Review: Plaza Mexico

What makes a restaurant stand out (in a good way) isn't usually what it's lacking.

However, in the case of Plaza Mexico, the new south-of-the-border eatery on Main Street in the Fan District, the lack of almost anything Mexican-themed is exactly what caught my eye.

Thank goodness it did. Otherwise, I wouldn't have given this place a second glance.

Maybe that's because of the limited supply of "authentic" Mexican and South American food in Richmond, or maybe it's that the owners of Plaza Mexico barely changed any of the décor from this space's former tenant, Cirrus, the flash-in-the-pan fusion bistro known for its trendy, minimalist décor.

Either way, Plaza Mexico's menu -- an approachable mix of fajitas, burritos, combo dinners and a few house specials -- is made memorable by the use of noticeably fresh ingredients and ingredients not often found in Americanized Mexican joints.

Fresh cilantro, chorizo and even pineapple work wonders in making Plaza Mexico's menu more than just a carbon copy of what's down the street.

We arrived on a Thursday night to a rather empty dining room. Remembering the contrast of Cirrus' dark moodiness and stark white décor, I was surprised that the only changes were brighter lights and a few blow-up Corona bottles. Even Cirrus' signature turquoise backlighting still glowed from the small bar at the back.

As expected, chips and salsa arrived lightning fast. These were nothing out of the ordinary, but the accompanying salsa blanca, a creamy, slightly spicy and slightly garlicky white sauce, was worth bottling and selling.

I usually prefer chunky guacamole in which the pieces of avocadomaintain some sense of solidity, but Plaza Mexico's creamy version was delicious. A hint of tanginess offset its subtle heat, giving it an appealing complexity.

While Plaza Mexico offers more than typical combos -- traditional sopes ($10.25) and the Mucha Hambre ($22), a platter of rib-eye, chicken, chorizo and cactus -- I wanted to evaluate its more typical offerings because their prices seemed a few dollars higher than those at other Richmond Mexican eateries.

Before my visit, I learned that Plaza Mexico's tacos were much talked about, so I decided to try tacos de lechuga ($10.25), my vague recollection of high school Spanish bringing something about lettuce to mind.

Although our server briefly explained that these "tacos" didn't come with tortillas, I was still surprised when a half-head of lettuce arrived as the substitute vehicle for savoring the dynamic filling of peppery steak, fresh cilantro and tender onions.

But as soon as I filled each leaf with steak, shredded queso and fresh pico de gallo, my surprise quickly turned to satisfaction. This is a perfect entrée for Mexican food lovers looking for lighter options.

When I asked our server why lettuce was used instead of tortillas, he sheepishly shrugged, saying he'd never eaten tacos this way. Authentic or not, these were a treat.

Under the chicken selections, #F ($8.29), a combo of chicken enchilada, chicken burrito and Spanish rice, caught my eye for its general disregard to all things grammatically correct. Regardless of its confusing nomenclature, the shredded chicken was juicy, the topping of cheese crumbly and the rice fluffy, moist and studded with peas. For a run-of-the-mill combo, this one stood out.

We also tried the Burrito California ($10.29), a hefty tortilla filled with our choice of chicken and served with a zippy cheese sauce. Served with beans and the same fluffy rice, it was nothing mind-blowing but nothing to complain about, either.

Our server, a shy yet polite fellow, was pleasant throughout the meal, but service seemed to drag. Perhaps it was a result of the small crowd, or Plaza Mexico needs to work on its timing. Nonetheless, he was friendly and eager to please.

While Plaza Mexico might not impress a native of the Southwest, it's one of the better Mexican restaurants in our area. However, if you want the kitsch, remember to bring your own sombrero.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at . Follow her at http://twitter.com/danacraigrtd.