At Amici, new look, great food

SLIDESHOW: Amici

With all the shopping and eating opportunities crammed into Carytown's multiple blocks, I've done my fair share of traversing its sidewalks in fits of retail and restaurant therapy.

Drop the dog off at Dogma, and truck it to Can Can for a midafternoon glass of wine. Stop at Mary Angela's for a slice of pizza before hitting Eurotrash for a sweet, new outfit to wear to the midnight show at the Byrd Theatre.

Sushi, jeans, subs, jewelry -- in Carytown, I've done it all. Or so I thought.

Considering all the time I've spent window shopping and wine sipping in this very neighborhood, I've neglected to visit one very established, consistently whispered-about restaurant: Amici, the Northern Italian ristorante owned by Carlo Gaione and Antonio Capece, also the duo behind La Grotta and Bistro 27.

Where have I been? I mean, this place has been around since 1991, and I'm a huge La Grotta fan. Howhave I completely overlooked it?

I'm going to blame the fact that they've been closed since September for renovations. That excuse is totally valid because, you know, the other 17 years they've been open don't count, right?

Anyway, the point is, renovation or not, Amici made it back on my radar, and after a wonderful meal with two friends on a very busy Friday, it's going to stay there.

With temperatures well below my comfort level, we tucked ourselves (literally) into Amici's extremely cozy downstairs bar, thinking the wait would be 30 minutes with no reservations.

Wrong. We waited an hour, but the bartender handled the crowd well, bringing bottles of Pellegrino ($4) and bar snacks to tide us over. Eventually, we were escorted upstairs to an intimate corner table overlooking Cary Street.

Amici's renovations are quite impressive. Gone are the dated pinks, greens and faux finishes. The downstairs bar has expanded, and blond wood accents combined with lemon-yellow walls give the space refreshing airiness given its small scale.

As expected, Amici's wine list ($25-$135) is heavily Italian, boasting such varietals as a 1999 Barbaresco R. Varaldo "Sori' Loreto" ($65) and a 1998 Amarone "La Giaretta" ($99).

Its dinner menu is divided into pasta, meat and seafood dishes. Hearing that mussels with Sambuca ($9.95) was a special many customers have requested be a staple, we decided to try it along with escargot in puff pastry ($9.95).

Served in a light tomato broth laced with hints of basil, the mussels were literally drunk with Sambuca. If you don't like the licoricelike flavor of anise, skip this dish, because the sweet tanginess overwhelmed the flavor of the mussels.

The escargot was excellent, its puff pastry robust in both texture and flavor to add complexity. A shallot-studded, red wine butter reduction added an alluring hint of sweetness.

For dinner, we tried veal scaloppini with artichoke ($21.95), sausage-stuffed quail ($23.95) and a special of braised beef short ribs and beef tenderloin ($29.95).

Our entrées seemed to share the notion that nothing can ever be too rich, something to which I have no problem adhering. The veal was lusciously tender, the tang of artichoke hearts blending harmoniously with its garlic-studded, lemon white wine sauce.

Topped with a deeply earthy, black truffle and red wine reduction, the quail was the quintessence of divine. The sausage inside was packed with so many fresh herbs, I didn't know one bite could hold so much pizzazz.

The short rib-tenderloin combo was surprisingly simple yet expertly prepared. The ribs had the texture of a velvet-covered pillow, flaunting just a touch of char. The tenderloin sang of nothing but natural juiciness and a pinch of salt.

The great service we experienced downstairs didn't make it upstairs with our dinner server. While he was knowledgeable, he somehow managed to be both intrusive and missing in action. However, it wasn't enough to spoil the meal.

When its restaurant neighbors are closing up shop, Amici proves its ability to withstand the ups and downs of our current economy by boosting its curb appeal with a well-timed renovation. New digs might lure you in, but the food will make you return.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at .