How to Make a Well-Dressed Man

It’s pretty easy to argue that wedding dresses get more attention from bridal publications than any other subject. Think about it – when was the last time you saw a solo groom on the cover of one of the bridal magazines lining the racks at the supermarket?

Certainly, when it comes to wedding fashion, what the groom will wear tends to get short shrift. But your future-Mr. will be in a majority of the pictures, too.

And admit it, ladies, if he looks good, you’ll look even better. So set aside the endless pictures of Vera’s and Monique’s for a moment, and pay attention. Here are some tips to ensure your fellow is also looking fabulous on your big day. 

Tuxedo vs. Suit
First and foremost, the groom should follow the lead of his bride, said Rachel Leonard, fashion director of Brides magazine. His formalwear should match the style and formality of what the bride is wearing, and thus the wedding itself. For example, if the bride is wearing a short Cotton Bride frock for a backyard daytime soiree, it might look a little odd if the groom shows up in gloves, a bow tie and a tux with tails.

In general, however, tradition dictates that standard black tuxedos are appropriate for more formal affairs taking place at or after 6 p.m., especially those held indoors. If your ceremony is taking place earlier in the day but still has a formal feel to it, the traditional dress code is referred to as “morning dress,” and consists of a black or gray cutaway (or “morning coat”) with tails, waistcoat and black-striped gray trousers.

But these days the groom may prefer to wear a suit of his own choosing, Leonard said, regardless of the time of day or location. Perhaps a chic, modern gray pinstripe Kenneth Cole suit for an evening party or a simple, classic navy three-button Brooks Brothers suit for a daytime celebration. A khaki or white linen suit, or even just a khaki pant with a linen shirt, would be appropriate for a beach wedding.

The Best Cuts and Colors
Modern tuxedos are generally cut narrower to the body, single-breasted with peaked lapels or a shawl collar and either one or two buttons. Black is traditional for tuxedos, and dark navy or dark gray is common for suits. Most designers have a tuxedo in their line, so if there’s a particular brand of suit you tend to prefer, check out their option.

Upscale menswear boutique Saxon Judd/Ermengildo Zegna in Tulsa, Okla., carries a broad inventory of Ermengildo Zegna suits and tuxedos year-round, including both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure. “We really like that elegant Old Hollywood look, but with a sleek, modern silhouette,” said owner Saxon Judd. This means tailored tuxedos with flat-front trousers, a specialty formal shirt without a bib or pleats and a regular cerimonia tie instead of the bowtie and cummerbund or vest. Judd also suggests that grooms consider a three-button tuxedo, formerly the domain of suits only, or try a tuxedo in a color other than black, such as dark chocolate brown, charcoal gray or black navy, with black lapel facings and braid down the trouser. “It’s a 100-percent custom look that separates the men from the boys,” Judd said.

As to the rest of the formalwear ensemble, the shirt should ideally complement the bride’s gown, whether that be white, off-white or ivory. Wing collars are generally considered a little more formal, but these days most men opt for turndown. A cummerbund or vest, if worn, should either match the jacket or facings material, or coordinate with the wedding colors or bridesmaids’ dresses. If the groom’s attire is otherwise traditional or staid, he can always make a personal statement with the pattern or color of the tie, said Leonard.

Buying vs. Renting
Whether or not you choose to buy depends on your lifestyle. If you have the extra funds and think you might wear the tuxedo or suit again to galas, charity events and other weddings, then purchasing a high quality one that fits you perfectly is a great investment. But renting is likely more affordable, and may be preferable if you want the entire wedding party to have a common look.

When to Get It
In general, if a groom wants a custom suit, Judd advises coming in at least two months in advance. This allows four or five weeks for the suit to be made and shipped, plus ample time to deal with any necessary alterations. The same time-frame is helpful even if you are renting, as what the groom wears will likely dictate what the rest of his wedding party wears.