Authentic New York pizza here

Plenty of places claim that what they're offering is "New York-style" pizza, but with most of them, it's more wishful thinking than reality.

Capriccio's Pizzeria & Ristorante, however, has the pedigree -- and the finished product -- to validate that claim.

Owner Frank Sgroi is a New York City native who recently transplanted from New Brunswick, N.J., where he ran a similar restaurant.

There is nothing fancy about Capriccio's -- casually elegant beige stucco walls, hanging ferns and an assortment of booths and tables -- but it's the type of neighborhood strip-mall dining spot that offers a certain level of comfort, a place you might visit a couple of times a week either to pick up a pie to go or to sit down and enjoy the creamy stuffed rigatoni ($9.99).

But it's equally pleasant when you only have time to pop in for a slice or two.

Capriccio's doesn't offer counter service -- though you'll often see Sgroi and his business partner, Antonio Carollo, tossing dough behind it -- but its wait staff is always prompt and solicitous.

Slices of pizza ($1.85, plus 45 cents for each topping) are big enough to satisfy a normal appetite, and small enough to handle without dripping too much grease when you eat it the required New York way: folded vertically.

It's obvious that Capriccio's uses fresh mozzarella, and its light tomato sauce is the perfect balance of tang and sweetness.

Though it isn't available by the slice, the white pizza ($7.50 for a 10-inch personal size) is a delectable combination of ricotta, mozzarella and pungent fresh garlic that kicks against the relative blandness of the cheeses.

Capriccio's also offers a sizeable garden salad ($4.75) that overflows with large green olives and cucumbers; an array of hot and cold subs (the chicken parmigiana for $6.95 is hearty enough for a meal and a half); strombolis ($8) and calzones ($7.25); and a full entrée menu for those not on a lunch budget.

For those who grew up with a neighborhood Italian restaurant as an integral part of their lives, Capriccio's will provide you with a familiar experience.

Contact Melissa Ruggieri at (804) 649-6120 or .