Dining Out Review: Sunset Grill

As summer comes to an end and I sit at my computer nowhere near the beach, I yearn for the uncontrived, leisurely atmosphere I associate with beach bars. While I haven't had sand between my toes in the past few weeks, I have experienced Sunset Grill.

Sunset Grill would make a great beach bar . . . if beach bars were in Manakin-Sabot, sported white tablecloths and, most importantly, served some darn good steak.

But Sunset Grill is by no means a beach bar, and despite the lack of an ocean in its vicinity, I couldn't shake the beach-bar vibe during my recent dinner visit. It's this easygoing ambience that makes Sunset Grill worth a return visit.

Located in the former home of The Red Oak Café, Sunset Grill takes a menu of mostly steaks and pasta and turns it into an experience by adding a casual, fun-loving staff, a patio and occasional live music important details sure to garner regulars.

And it seemed the revelers lining thepacked bar had no problem calling Sunset Grill home during our visit. But just past the patio laden with buckets of beer and the lively pub area sits a small dining room marked by white linens, a cozy fireplace and just the right amount of panache for a casually pampered meal.

Whether you want to grab a drink with friends or enjoy a marbled prime rib with a significant other, Sunset Grill offers opportunities for both.

While our meal had a few kinks, there's no denying that Sunset Grill is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

After being seated at a table beside the fireplace, we scanned Sunset Grill's small wine list ($18-$38). Though it was appropriately priced, I was surprised it didn't hold options outside the expected, such as 14 Hands, Dynamite and J. Lohr -- especially considering that a significant portion of the menu highlights filets, sirloins and lamb chops, entrées that scream for a sizable selection of Cabs.

Though Sunset Grill's menu is heavy on the red meat, a few seasonal seafood specials, such as soft-shell crabs, and a list of seafood-intense appetizers round out the options, so we started with our server's recommendation: Willoughby Spit hot crab dip ($10.95).

Served in a toasted bread bowl, it featured a rich blend of backfin crabmeat, cheeses and herbs -- I couldn't keep my knife out of it. It was pleasantly decadent, but I wished the bread had been a flavorfully significant component, rather than simply a vehicle for inhaling the dip.

Our entrées, however, were quite memorable. The grilled mahi mahi special ($19.95) was seasoned to perfection with just the right amount of salt enhancing the flavor of the fish. Too bad it had been cut into two thin filets, marring the presentation.

However, a refreshingly vinegary mix of Vidalia onions, tomatoes and cucumbers was the perfect counterpart to the side of indulgently creamy homemade mac'n'cheese.

Doused in melted herb butter, the 10-ounce baseball-cut sirloin ($22.95) looked as heavenly as it tasted. Literally the size of a baseball, the steak was charred to perfection, leaving the interior rosy pink and juicy.

When our server stopped by to remove plates, my dining companion enthusiastically noted that he was only on the ninth inning of this "baseball" and then went to town enjoying every last morsel.

Sunset Grill offers a few desserts, which I was disappointed to find were not made in house. The raspberry white-chocolate cheesecake ($5.95) was average but did its duty satisfying my sweet tooth.

One of the most pleasing aspects of our meal was our server. She seemed genuinely excited to be a part of the Sunset Grill family and didn't hesitate to offer suggestions or explain entrée preparations.

She also volunteered to keep our side salads chilled to give us ample time to finish our appetizer without rushing. Forethought to the little details in service is hugely appreciated in my book.

If you enjoy a decadent steak topped off with friendly service and a breezy atmosphere, Sunset Grill is your spot.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at .