Aurora is working on becoming a 3-in-1 treat

-- Aurora, the new bakery-restaurant-lounge on the corner of Grace and Fourth streets, has impressively high ceilings. And for that I'm glad, because all the potential swirling around this Euro-chic, open-air, are-we-really-in-Richmond? establishment needs plenty of room to keep on growing.

Run by chef Scott Davison and his stepson, manager George Gapanovitch, Aurora opened three months ago as a bakery and lunch spot. During the midday hours, an eclectic mix of downtown workers noshes on sandwiches, such as oven-roasted turkey ($6.95) on honey wheat bread with lingonberry-chipotle mayo, and caffeine junkies fuel up on java and housemade pastries.

This all makes complete sense, considering chef Davison's experience. He's a decorated pastry chef, winning such accolades as a gold medal at the 1997 Eastern European Culinary Olympics.

What doesn't seem to make sense, initially at least, is the décor. White leather sofas and sleek low tables arearranged lounge-style in the center of the soaring space. A gently curved bar commands attention with a centerpiece of soft neon. Minus the glass case of desserts up front, the place oozes nightlife.

But once you realize Aurora's goal is to do triple duty as a bakery, restaurant and lounge, the vibe does make sense, in an odd yet appealingly contradictory way. The only problem is if you stop in for tapas during limited evening hours as we did, you'll realize the late-night aspect of Aurora is still a work in progress.

Still, I couldn't help but feel Aurora will materialize fabulously. I'm just not sure when.

Even though our group of four was outnumbered by the mob of employees by at least threefold, we could feel the genuine excitement each held for Aurora's future as not only a daytime spot but also a sophisticated place for a nightcap and even dancing.

Our server, while surprisingly unfamiliar with the drink list, was excited to rattle off excessive details regarding the tapas, chef's history and plans for the space -- plans that were actually in progress as we sat. The DJ booth was being tested, leaving us partially deaf for half the meal. Bad timing on our part, but had we been there at midnight, the sound level would have rocked, literally.

Aurora's tapas menu is small, but its portions are anything but. The massive potato cake topped with osso bucco ($8.95) is by no means a small plate. Tender pieces of veal shank were doused in a sauce so rich and earthy, it was more like stew yet the crispness of the potato cake held up gloriously.

Curried sea scallops ($11.95) were a bit tough and bland, but the bed of microgreens with housemade vinaigrette should have been on the menu on its own. The dressing was dynamic.

Brochettes of beef tenderloin ($10.95) were cooked more than our requested medium, and their grainy texture was perhaps the result of being marinated too long. However, a dollop of chimichurri relish, a lively mix of cilantro, garlic, salt and onion, added a flavorful punch.

Pork schnitzel ($9.95), on the other hand, was a standout. Pounded incredibly thin, breaded to perfection and topped with capers, this "tapa" defied its small price tag. Served with a heap of tangy red cabbage, this could easily be a completely satisfying entrée.

Desserts (all $9.95) are obviously one of Aurora's specialties, so we tried Mousse Chocolate au Battenberg, a checkerboard of white and dark chocolate mousse flavored with Meyer's dark rum and Amaretto di Sarono. It was rich as expected, yet the price seemed high for the overly mellow result.

Stop into Aurora for lunch, enjoy a sandwich and ogle the impressive décor. Or wait a few months until the lounge portion is up and running on all cylinders. Either way, Aurora's multifarious facets add needed dimension to an area of town on the brink of coming into its own.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at .