Stronghill an enticing new spot on Boulevard

SLIDESHOW: Stronghill Dining Company

My recent Saturday to-do list went something like this:

1. Clean microwave

2. Pay car insurance

3. Assemble bookcase

4. Get tattoo

5. Have nice dinner to celebrate accomplishing all of the above.

Thanks to Stronghill Dining Company -- the Boulevard's newest dining establishment brought to you by Jessika Simmons and Rob Weaver, owners of River City Tattoo -- the ease of accomplishing tasks 4 and 5 made getting through tasks 1 through 3 feel like advanced calculus.

Located across the street from its tattooing sibling, Stronghill is a place for people who appreciate gourmet fare without all the stuffiness.

Regardless of your propensity for tattoos, it's almost impossible not to appreciate Stronghill's coolly aware mix of upscale cuisine and casual hipness. This dual appeal means Stronghill is keenly aware of its diners and drinkers.

It's no surprise, then, that Stronghill's general manager is Cole Bucholtz, a veteran whose résumé includes several Richmond nighttime institutions, including Starlite, Bandito's and Sticky Rice.

Stronghill's wine list is short but sweet -- all glasses $7, all bottles $25. However, a lengthy list of specialty martinis keeps things interesting.

Wooden booths inlaid with dark, tattoolike swirls and towering ceilings give the space an Art Nouveau vibe while terra cotta-colored walls, exposed copper piping and a grottolike lounge give the place sophisticated appeal -- a striking contrast to the Boulevard's status as an undiscovered entertainment destination.

Chef Owen Lane, the culinary darling who has graced the kitchens of Helen's, Michelle's at Hanover Tavern and, most recently, The Track, has a knack for giving gourmet cuisine a comforting, Southern charm.True to his signature culinary mark, at Stronghill, Lane takes straightforward classics and invigorates them with subtle yet clever embellishments.

We started with grilled frog legs and a Tasso ham, oyster mushroom and Manchego tart (both $8). Yes, I know, the frog legs tasted like chicken, but their smoky flavor was accented with citrus oils, giving them tangy complexity.

Topped with sweet red onion marmalade, the tart's delicate pastry shell held a robust combination of contrasting yet wonderfully complementary ingredients. The saltiness of the ham, full-bodied flavor of the cheese and earthiness of the mushrooms were very good at playing nice together.

For entrées, we went with the wild boar loin ($24) and pan-seared seasonal fish, rockfish ($27).

The boar was so tender, I almost yelled out, "Forget the knife!" before realizing that would not have been appropriate. Served atop a cumin-laced black-eyed pea cake, briny-sweet collards and Tasso ham gravy, this dish embodied all the comfort of down-home cooking with the reserved flourish of a chef who knows his stuff. Brilliant.

The rockfish was big and meaty, flaking off into heavenly seasoned chunks with ease. A base of roasted sweet potatoes added a hint of sugariness while asparagus and oyster mushrooms rounded out the textures. The real kicker was the topping of beer-battered onion rings, a simple accent that not only oohed but ahhed.

Our server, who was on it the entire meal with knowledgeable menu suggestions and well-timed check-ins, recommended saving room for dessert. As good customers, we heeded her recommendation, ordering chocolate mousse and apple pie (both $7).

I'm not the biggest chocolate mousse fan, but Stronghill's version was so decadent its texture rivaled cream cheese. I could barely keep myself from licking the glass. The apple pie was delicious in its simplicity -- sturdy crust, layer upon layer of cinnamon-laced apples and a melted scoop of vanilla ice cream. Yes and yes.

Stronghill Dining Company is just what the Boulevard needs to become the next go-to area of town. Braves, who? .