Dining Out Review: Bacchus

SLIDESHOW: Bacchus

I'm not the biggest fan of weekend dining. Restaurants are crowded, chefs are overworked and servers are often in the weeds. It's not the restaurants' fault. Most people do their dining out on the weekend.

If you're going to go all out, especially to a nicer restaurant, why have the annoyance of a workday hanging over your head?

Makes sense, but I'm a certifiably insane restaurant addict. Without fail, on any given Sunday and/or Monday, the shakes start to set in. The urge to dine out slowly overtakes my best intentions of going to the grocery store. And before I can comprehend what I'm doing, I'm frantically searching for restaurants that are open.

I know restaurant staff members need days off, but -- whine alert -- I want to eat out all the time! And a good dinner out can make the stifling awfulness of Monday seem less daunting. Thus, Bacchus, I'd like to thank you for easing the pain of a recent Monday by treating my dining companion and me to an excellent meal.

If you've lived in Richmond for any length of time, you've probably driven by this cozy Fan District spot, tucked into a corner space across from a thrift store. It's easy to overlook, but based on its longevity, I don't think many Richmonders have missed it.

While Bacchus' menu of pastas and Italian-influenced fare has been rather static over the years, chef and owner Chris DiLauro and his team of kitchen staff have been keeping the crowds hooked. While I've experienced hits and misses there, my most recent visits have been delightfully rewarding.

About 7:30 p.m. one recent Monday, we arrived to a virtually empty dining room. However, the place quickly livened up as diners and drinkers began to take up space inside the intimately lighted, brick-and stucco-drenched dining room.

Bacchus' wine list ($21-$90) offers a little something for everyone, including everything from a 2003 Alessandria Barolo ($77) to a Coppola Merlot ($36).

Starters are heavily seafood-based, and I had no problem digging into shrimp and scallop scampi with brandy and tomatoes ($9) and fried oysters ($9).

I'm a stickler for quality scallops -- none of this preservative-loaded, eerily white stuff for me -- and it seems Bacchus is, too. Diver scallops, plump shrimp and hunks of tomato were doused in a garlic-intense butter sauce, tamed slightly by the sweetness of brandy.

The large portion of lightly breaded oysters was divine, but I was more impressed by the accompanying lemon-dill aioli, an indulgently thick celebration of skillfully married flavors.

Bacchus' entrées flaunt a thoughtful balance of textures in surprisingly generous portions. Veal scaloppini ($22) combined tenderness with a delicately crisp sear, its brown butter sauce enhanced by the acidity of capers, lemon and artichokes.

Seared rare tuna ($22) was crusted in amixture of black and white sesame seeds, creating an intriguing base for the ruby-red flesh. The drizzle of wasabi-soy vinaigrette was much richer than I expected, giving the tuna a distinct robustness.

Sides are ordered a la carte ($5), but we forgot to put in our order for creamed spinach in time for it to arrive with our entrées. Our server wisely suggested that the chef sauté the spinach with garlic and pine nuts, resulting in this garlic lover's dream.

Service throughout the meal was attentive yet laid-back. We never felt rushed, although the meal did linger longer than expected.

All in all, Bacchus is still doing what it has always done, and still doing it well. When the dining-out pangs strike on Monday -- or any day, for that matter -- I recommend Bacchus as a refreshing culinary cure.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at .