Dining Out Review: Emilio’s in Short Pump
MARK GORMUS/TIMES-DISPATCH
The signature dish at Emilio’s Restaurante Espanol is Paella Valenciana. Pictured here is Paella Mixta.
Published: October 15, 2009
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SLIDESHOW: Tempting tapas at Emilio's Rating: |
It seems Richmond has finally embraced tapas. No, I'm not talking about the myriad restaurants taking everyday fare, minimizing the portions and slapping the "tapas" moniker on them to seem more exotic.
I'm talking about the traditional Spanish snack typically eaten in bars to stave off hunger before that country's usual 10 p.m. dinnertime, little bites jazzed up with Marcona almonds, morcilla (Spanish blood sausage) and white anchovies, not simply chorizo and Manchego cheese.
Sure, there isn't a Richmond version of Charlottesville's MAS, the closest you'll get to Spain in this region of Virginia, but we do have Emilio's, now with a third location in Short Pump.
The first Emilio's opened on Broad Street near the Fan; a second location followed in Woodlake in western Chesterfield County. Both successfully cater to the audiences in their respective areas, and the latest location continues this success.
Yes, the new Emilio's is in a shopping center just past all the chain restaurants clogging West Broad Street, but don't write off its authenticity just yet. The paella pit in the main dining room and the festive mosaic-covered dividers hint at the celebration of flavors soon to grace your table.
We arrived on a Tuesday evening to a nearly empty dining room; however, as our meal progressed, the space filled up quickly. Our server, an energetic woman with a textbook knowledge of each dish's preparation, was quick to recommend housemade sangria ($7), available in red or white. Emilio's also serves an array of Spanish wines.
The bulk of Emilio's menu is tapas that can be ordered in the traditional small-plate size or in a larger entrée portion. Paellas, Spanish rice dishes and fideauás (similar to paella but with pasta instead of rice) round out the entrées.
We decided to go the traditional route, ordering a variety of tapas to share.
Do not miss any of the montaditos (tapas size $5.95, regular size $8.95), which are similar to bruschetta. Pan a la Catalana, grilled bread topped with serrano ham and Emilio's homemade tomato sauce, was a hit. The tomato paste added just the right acidic kick to the saltiness of the thick slices of ham.
Gambas al Ajillo (tapas $5.95, regular $8.95), the classic garlic shrimp dish, did not disappoint. Plump morsels of shrimp glistened in an intense pool of so-fresh-it-hurts garlic sauce. Make sure you ask for extra bread so you don't waste any of this luscious sauce.
Albóndigas de Carne (tapas $5.95, regular $8.95), Spanish beef meatballs in a light tomato sauce, was a bit pedestrian, although the sauce was vividly fresh.
Empanadas ($5.75 for one, $9.75 for two), housemade savory pastries, come with a variety of fillings. We chose chorizo and Manchego and "Con Pisto," a mix of green and red peppers, garlic and mushrooms blended in a red wine reduction.
The chorizo and Manchego version was simple and satisfying, the bits of meat adding hidden bursts of saltiness to the creamy cheese. The pepper and mushroom version was more complex, its flavors dancing between pungent and sweet. The accompanying spicy aioli added a touch of zing.
Server-recommended seared scallops ($9.95) fell flat. The advertised spicy pesto sauce was packed with fresh herbs but lacked the heat-filled wallop we hoped for, and the portion of scallops was rather meager. However, the leftover sauce didn't go to waste after we asked for extra bread.
Berenjenas a la Suecana (tapas $5.95, regular $8.95) is a treat for vegetarians. Lightly grilled then baked eggplant was enriched with housemade marinara and shavings of Manchego cheese.
We were too full for dessert, but I can highly recommend the orange flan from my visit to Emilio's Woodlake location. Save room if you can.
Emilio's has continued its success of making the authenticity of Spanish cuisine accessible to all areas of metro Richmond. Here's to hoping a fourth location isn't far behind.
Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at . Follow her at http://twitter.com/danacraigrtd.
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Reader Reactions
Trust me, the paella at Emilio’s is authentic and delicious. You can’t get any more authentic than an owner and chef who was born in Valencia, which is also the birthplace of paella! Having been to Spain several times myself, I can say the only thing the paella pictured is missing is the heads and legs of the shrimp! I would encourage qhgirl to visit the restaurant and taste the food before passing judgment. I absolutely love it!
Whenever I come to Richmond I always make sure and put Emilio’s on the agenda. I’ve eat at all 3 of the locations and have never been disappointed. You must stop by and try it out yourself.
As someone who has experienced most of the dishes at Emilio’s (any location) and someone who has also visited Spain, please know this is some of the best authentic Spanish food I have EVER tasted! The paella (any kind) is full of lots of flavor. The fried yucca is also great. I hope most people in the area would know not to judge a restaurant by a picture.
Suzn.. that was my point.. this “staged” pic isn’t appetizing since it looks like the paella isn’t prepared as I am used to from my trips to spain.. So would not entice me to go there… No, I haven’t been there.. but this picture and the review of appetizers doesn’t inspire me to want to visit. Garlic sauce that is so intense “it hurts”.. sounds too “raw garlicky”.. another appetizer described as pedestrian..
I actually don’t eat out much since I generally get much better food at home (service is better too lol). I have been disapointed at one time or another at pretty much every place I have eaten in Richmond at one time or another from Lemaire to Millies diner.. to “Moes”.. Some restaurants have been more consistent.. Little Saigon used to be very good before new ownership.. Caribean Chef.. is good, if you can figure out when they are open.
I would prefer to see a dish as it would be presented..not “staged” in some false fashion..why photoshop food when it doesn’t help make the sale?
This picture is called staging for the camera, so that all can be seen, have you been there to try it? How do you know by the pic? LOL
The Paella actually doesn’t look like it would be all that good.. the shrimp looked like they were steamed and cooked separate from the rest of the dish.. In spain, all the seafood would take on a hue from the spices in the rice from cooking..
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