Mosaic’s pieces a fine fit for a fine spring day

SLIDESHOW: Slideshow: Mosaic Café & Catering

As daily highs begin to tickle the lower end of the 70s and cars of all hues take on Mountain Dew-colored sheens, my annual hunt for Richmond's outdoor-dining venues begins.

If you've lived here for more than one cycle of seasons, you know this is not an effortless endeavor. While it's not hard to figure out the few popular patios in town, it is hard to find bathing-suit-friendly fare at many of these establishments. Yeah, beer and nachos, I'm talking about you.

I'm sure it's not just me. But when the temperatures rise, so does my awareness of this crazy thing called healthfulness.

Suddenly, I want fresh. I want vibrant. I want light. Of course, options for a little indulgence must be available, too, but I'm not feeling a mountain o' hot wings when the air outside is sweat-inducing enough.

Thus I extend a sincere thank you to Mosaic Café & Catering, the California-meets-Mediterranean-inspired eatery tucked between the high-end shops in the River Road Shopping Center.

Open since 1994, its mission is to "effectively nourish body and soul while preserving the highest level of quality and value." Lunch or dinner, you'll have pretty good odds of receiving all of the above.

I've long thought of Mosaic as a lunch spot. After all, its menu includes pita-, wrap- and salad-lovers' dreams, such as the Apricot Chicken Salad Roller ($6.95) with almonds, celery, dried fruit, yogurt, tomatoes, fresh herbs and field greens.

But if you'd like a more substantial meal, Mosaic offers a handful of pastas and seasonal dinner specials, such as seared maple-glazed salmon ($13.95) -- not to mention a small but serviceable wine and beer selection.

This time around, I wanted to see what Mosaic's dinner ambience was like.

Lunchtime can be a madhouse, so we were pleased to be able to choose our own table, ending up at one end of a long row of booths across from the brightly lighted dessert case and open kitchen.

Blue-gray wood support beams, stone accents, faux-textured walls and a cool pastel color palette give Mosaic a breezy atmosphere, one much more put-together than your typical quick-casual establishment.

Our server was friendly, though not quite up to speed on the dinner specials or menu details, but she was pleasant and attentive.

We settled on a cup of golden tomato soup ($2.95), the Gorgonzola walnut salad ($8.25) with shrimp ($3.95 extra) and the Aegean chicken pita ($6.75).

The soup was spring in a cup -- a refreshing puree of tangy acidity cut with a touch of creaminess. I wish I'd ordered the bowl ($5.75), it was so good -- and the portions aren't exactly huge.

The salad was just what I'd hoped for: a mountain of pungent Gorgonzola, walnuts, sun-dried tomatoes and grape tomatoes set atop spinach and field greens. The flavors, while strong, balanced harmoniously, almost making me forget the side of spirited balsamic-Dijon vinaigrette.

The chicken pita wasn't as appealing. The chicken breast appeared to be hastily grilled, its sought-after grill marks and the resulting tantalizing kiss of char missing. However, the toasted pita, black olives, red onions, feta, greens and Greek vinaigrette combined winningly.

Remember that bit about a little indulgence I mentioned? Well, Mosaic has it. We ended with the monthly dessert special, Pink Azalea cake and chocolate peanut-butter cookies.

The cake was huge -- layer upon layer of dangerously moist strawberry cake and angel food cake separated by strawberry cream-cheese icing and sliced strawberries. I couldn't think of a better way to end a springtime meal.

But wait. The cookies, oh, the cookies. Mosaic's take on a simple cookie is an inch-and-a-half-thick hockey puck of huge chocolate chips nestled lovingly in soft peanut buttery heaven.

With its outdoor patio, breezy atmosphere and menu of fresh and healthful fare, Mosaic is a great spot to kick back and welcome the onset of warmer days. Oh, and inhale some cookies, too. Whatever you do, don't forget the cookies.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at .

Mosaic Café & Catering
Rating:
Where: 6229A River Road (River Road Shopping Center)
Phone: (804) 288-7482
Web site: www.mosaicedibles.com
Noise level: average
Vegetarian options: pitas, wraps, sandwiches, salads, pastas, pizza
Smoking: smoke-free
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. MondaySaturday (lunch and dinner); 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday (brunch and dinner)
Prices: $6.95-$13.95
Check for two: $34 (including soup, two entrées, two desserts and tax)