Davis & Main combines sweet, sour

Davis & Main is one of those restaurants where one minute you're at the bar chatting up Mayor-elect Dwight Clinton Jones (a rumored regular), and the next minute, you're reminiscing about the junior prom date you took here years before.

Hey, it could happen. Davis & Main is a Fan District institution, serving grilled American cuisine in all its tried-and-true glory since 1987.

Back in the 1950s, the building was home to a pool hall and illegal gambling parlor. Today, some of that dark, don't-ask-don't-tell vibe still swirls around Davis & Main's intimate dining room.

High-backed booths, begging for quiet tæte-à-tætes, line one dark wood-paneled wall while worn brass, towering mirrors and a stately bar add to a mood enhanced by the velvet voice of Sinatra clinging to the air.

Can you tell I really dig Davis & Main's ambiance?

Still, over the years, my experiences with the menu have seen ups and downs. At times the food is thoughtfully prepared with subdued flourishes, and other times I've wondered what exactly merits the $20-plus price.

Oddly, Davis & Main's wine list ($4.50-$7 a glass, $19-$38 a bottle)doesn't exactly scream fine dining. Basic options include Pepperwood Grove Viognier ($6.50/$24) and Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon ($35).

Because the ambiance feels more suited for martinis and scotch, it's no surprise that Davis & Main's range of liquors and after-dinner drinks is more notable.

On a recent weeknight, a friend and I grabbed a coveted booth and were pleased to see the dining room somewhat full. Although there was only one server, he handled the room with a pleasant, yet nonintrusive, air.

Davis & Main's appetizers haven't varied much over the past few years -- the artichoke hearts stuffed with fontina ($8) are a favorite. However, I hadn't seen the flatbread pizza of the day ($9) listed before, so along with sea scallops ($12), a sick addiction of mine, we dove in.

Served over champagne Dijon sauce, the scallops were big but still managed to flaunt the perfect combination of seared crust and delicately pink interior. The sauce gave off hints of Dijon but was overly salty.

The flatbread was disappointing. Topped with tomato, mozzarella, basil and drizzles of balsamic, it got soggy after a few bites. While the flavors were balanced, it wasn't any more memorable than a make-at-home pizza.

Davis & Main's menu has long revolved around grilled fare, so I was surprised to see few grilled options. During our visit, entrees ranged from shrimp and grits ($19) to a caramelized onion and blue cheese-topped 8-ounce beef tenderloin ($26). We went with pork chops ($20) and the seafood platter ($23).

Served with oh-so-garlicky mashed potatoes and asparagus spears kissed with char, the pork chops were tender and juicy. The mustard cream sauce sang with hints of brown sugar, an unexpected accent to its savoriness.

The seafood platter? Um, not so much. The scallops were as good as our appetizer, but the mini crab cake suffered from the oversalting we experienced earlier. Tiger shrimp, while large, had a distinctly pre-frozen flavor. The 4-ounce tuna filet was overcooked and underseasoned.

We couldn't end our meal on a sour note, especially considering Davis & Main's desserts are homemade. It was our duty to go forth, venturing fearlessly (and a little too indulgently) into the realm of sweet bliss with an apple crisp and chocolate Kahlúa cake.

Moist like pound cake, the chocolate cake was just rich enough, paired with pistachio ice cream. While I usually consider myself champion of dessert-ordering, credit goes to my friend for choosing the apple crisp. It was awesome.

Laced with rolled oats and plenty of cinnamon, the piping hot mountain of apples melted the vanilla ice cream into a delicious pool of we-can't-stop-eating.

Oh, Davis & Main, how you taunt me. Sometimes you're spot on, sometimes you fall flat, but your atmosphere is always second to none. I'll eventually try your menu again, but in the meantime, save me a place at the bar.