Dining Out Review: Café Gutenberg

I'm always a little wary of restaurant PR. It's so subjective. I'm not one to put much stock in what a restaurant claims are its strong points. I want to decide for myself.

But if I could simply copy and paste the "About Us" section from the newly reopened Café Gutenberg's Web site, call it my review and move on with my day, I would. They've nailed it.

New chef-owners Jen Mindell and Garrett Berry clearly state their mission: to serve "fun, fresh and lively New American Cuisine to a community that wants and deserves to be inspired by their food again."

Given the restaurant's tumultuous history -- experiencing complete devastation by the remnants of Tropical Storm Gaston, waffling back and forth between coffeehouse and pseudo-café and then almost closing in 2008 -- I'm even more impressed that Mindell and Berry were able to turn their dreams for Café Gutenberg into a reality and do it so true to their word.

Gone are the bookcases, racks of newspapers and coffeehouse vibe. In their place are a bright, breathable interior bathed in vibrant yellow, thoughtfully chosen wine and beer lists and a menu featuring everything from vegan dishes, all-day brunch and entrées ready to conquer any carnivore. With all this, the reinvented Café Gutenberg is a bona fide hot spot in the mecca that is Shockoe Bottom's dining scene.

Grab a bite indoors or sip wine al fresco overlooking the 17th Street Farmers' Market -- from where, not surprisingly, a significant portion of Café Gutenberg's menu comes. Whatever your preference, Mindell, Berry and frontman Nik Ashburn won't let you leave dissatisfied.

I've had several meals already, both inside and out, so I'll recap some of the highlights.

You can make a meal out of a selection of Café Gutenberg's appetizers. The local vegetable fondue ($8) -- a vibrant array of steamed baby carrots, zucchini, asparagus and green beans served with house baguette and Vermont Cheddar gravy -- is a beautiful marriage of healthful and indulgent. Try not to finish the gravy. I dare you.

A current special, local Edmonds Farm bison sliders ($8.75) served rare to medium rare on Pullman rolls, is to-die-for, seasoned just enough to let the naturally lean meat shine. House-made garlic mayo adds a zingy yet balanced punch.

Braised pork lettuce wraps ($6.75),also available with tofu, are a celebration of fresh ingredients. Crisp Bibb lettuce overflows with a mountain of tender pork, fresh mint, radish, carrot and what the menu calls "chili ginger madness," a complex yet subdued accent that leaves a lingering sizzle on the tongue.

The bulk of Café Gutenberg's menu is composed of all-day brunch items, such as a pumpkin spice waffle with candied pecans ($7.25), and sandwiches, such as a Reuben with ale-braised sauerkraut ($8.25). However, a handful of entrées are available.

The mixed grill ($17) -- curry beef, grilled shrimp and chicken satay served over mixed greens -- is worth the menu's highest price. Cucumbers tame the curry beef's warm heat and the shrimp's garlic-laced spiciness. But the real kicker is the accompanying jade parsley sauce, its thick pungency skillfully enhancing each bite.

One of my favorite desserts has always been Café Gutenberg's banoffi pie, an addictive combination of bananas, caramel, chocolate sauce and crust of buttery crumbles. And it still is. Save room.

Café Gutenberg still serves illy coffee, but now its wine ($5-$10 per glass, $20-$40 per bottle) and beer lists better complement its more culinarily focused menu. When the weather is nice, it's hard to pass up sipping a glass of Martinsancho Verdejo ($10/$40) on one of the outdoor café tables.

Every time I've stopped in, multiple servers have checked in, kindly interested in explaining the menu, suggesting wines -- just simply being a part of the whole operation. I've even seen chef Mindell pop out of the kitchen and make the rounds.

Like I said, any restaurant can say any number of things about itself. But to earn my loyalty, a place has to display genuine dedication and passion. And Café Gutenberg does.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at .