Dining Out Review: Leigh St. Bar & Grill

If I had to recall the last time I spent a dinner chatting about a chef's culinary style one minute and rapping with him to A Tribe Called Quest the next, this article would end right here.

Now that I've hung out at Leigh St. Bar & Grill, I've spent a dinner doing just that and would do it again just about any night of the week.

Open two and a half months in Richmond's historic Carver neighborhood, Leigh St. is one of those one-of-a-kind neighborhood spots that you simply can't manufacture, as was the building's dearly departed former occupant, The Corner Bar & Grill.

Almost anyone can whip up a menu mixing traditional comfort food, such as fried catfish and collards, with contemporary twists, such as baked tilapia with ginger lime ($12.50), but not just anyone can turn these things into a memorable dining experience.

Creating a place with panache, where dining is more than just good food brought to you in a timely manner, takes passion, passion strong enough to emanate from staff to customer without being contrived.

And that's what I experienced at Leigh St. on a recent Friday night after meeting Ari Coleman, this bar and grill's enthusiastic and charming jack of all trades.

When we grabbed a table for two in the brightly open dining room beneath one of three TVs blaring different stations, Coleman was at the bar happily slinging drinks to a raucous group of what had to be regulars.

Within moments, he was greeting us with the utmost geniality and going over the ins and outs of Leigh St.'s small but flavor-filled menu. Sandwiches, such as chicken salad and a turkey Reuben, make up half of the menu while a small group of entrees, such as blackened catfish ($13) and a rib-eye ($17.50), round out the offerings.

Sounds like rather straightforward stuff, and it is. But what makes Leigh St. stand out is its emphasis on homemade.

This is also where Coleman's jack-of-all-trades mentality shines. After taking our drink orders from a selection that includes a full liquor bar, everyday wines ($15.50-$27) and beer, such as Starr Hill and Victory, Coleman explained he'd been in the kitchen that morning preparing several of the sides and sauces.

After he described making the sauce for one of the evening's specials, chicken Alfredo with herbes de Provence ($9.50), we eagerly ordered that along with sautéed shrimp ($14.50)and a starter of buffalo chicken wings ($6.25).

Hands down, Leigh St.'s chicken wings are the best I've had. Slightly crispy, meaty to the max and drenched in a pucker-inducing sauce with a bit of kick, these puppies were unbelievable. You can even order them as a dinner with two sides for $8.50.

The wings were a hard act to follow, but the chicken special was still good. The Alfredo was lethally rich, sticking perfectly to tri-color rotini pasta yet tempered by the acidity of diced tomato. The meat was moist, accented by fresh thyme, oregano and rosemary.

The shrimp were nicely seasoned but overshadowed by my choice of sides. The next day, I described the mac'n' cheese to a friend as "just like Mom's" -- al dente noodles, just enough cheese to hold things together and a crisp upper crust. Vinegary yet sweet, the collards maintained a bit of crunch, just how I like them.

Whatever you do, do not miss the cornbread. Laced with lemon and vanilla, it was almost as good as our dessert, a special of angel food cake topped with nutmeg-sprinkled strawberries and fresh whipped cream ($4).

I encourage you to give Leigh St. a try, but keep in mind, this place, like the passion that holds it together, is not a manufactured creation. A meal here moves at its own pace, sometimes stretching a little too long. But if you are looking for a place to kick back, relax and enjoy some creative home cooking, Leigh St.'s your place. .