Dining Out Review: Coast

I 've written about restaurants in Richmond for more than four years now, and the No. 1 question I get asked never changes. Ever.

"What's the best seafood restaurant in town?"

Richmond clearly wants its seafood, but, sadly, it's common knowledge that we don't really have a boatload -- I'm sorry -- of consistently viable options.

Sure, there are a few longtime "legends" that mostly ride on their laurels and the occasional upscale restaurant that makes a mean fish special, but overall, I could count my recommendations on one hand.

And by recommendations, I mean not your typical fried-shrimp-and-hush puppies houses. I mean a place that really knows seafood and celebrates it with a combination of clean simplicity and acute accents.

As of its March opening, Coast, the newest restaurant to come from Gary York, owner of Enoteca Sogno, has earned a place on my short list of recommendations. This place has it down.

Located on Grove Avenue in the former home of Escabar (and before that, du Jour), Coast showcases everything I love about our local dining scene: a casually contemporary atmosphere with a touch of class, a talented chef who has honed his skills in the kitchens of several local hot spots and a memorable staff clearly dedicated to making the Coast experience all it can and should be.

With a résumé that includes Patina Grill, Helen's, Bank and most recentlySugar Toad, Jimmy Sneed's latest restaurant just outside Chicago, chef Andy DeGrange has learned from many talented employers. And it shows.

His food is simple, wisely seasoned and free from unnecessary frills. During a phone call after my recent dinner at Coast, he explained that he "makes food [he] likes to eat -- nothing crazy, no fusion."

This culinary mentality is a perfect match to Coast's serenely breezy atmosphere. Gray-blue walls with subtle punches of red create a unique and inviting space.

Coast's bar flaunts a handful of beers and a small wine list ($32-$80), including easy-drinking varietals, such as Honig Sauvignon Blanc ($24) and Sinskey Pinot Noir ($78).

We started our recent Friday dinner with two of three available appetizers: mussels ($14) and seared scallops ($13).

Poached in white wine with garlic, shallots, parsley and a roasted tomato purée and served with frites, the mussels were not only plentiful but also massively plump. The zingy accents complemented without overwhelming.

The three Diver scallops were expertly seared and seasoned. Accents of asparagus purée, shitake mushrooms and a drizzle of truffle oil contrasted the shellfish's natural delicacy with an intriguing undertone of pungent earthiness.

Coast's entrée list includes chicken with andouille sausage ($20), seared duck breast ($23) and prime rib-eye ($26), but it's no surprise that Coast's expertise is in its seafood offerings, such as our jumbo lump crab cakes ($28) and grouper with lobster butter ($23).

No matter how much I get the urge to avoid the ubiquitous crab cake, I end up ordering it. And when I stumble upon a really good one, it stands out tenfold in my mind. And Coast's version definitely stood out.

Two mounds of pure jumbo lump meat were held together with only the magic of a skilled chef, their delicate creaminess quietly laced with a mustardy kick. Dollops of basil aioli added a side note of refreshing sweetness.

The grouper, breaded oh-so-lightly with a mellow hint of seasoning, flaked beautifully at the touch of the fork. The lobster butter was rich without being lethal, enriching the fish's naturally subdued flavor. A nest of fresh tagliatelle pasta rounded out the dish.

Sides ($5) are available a la carte, and I highly recommend the caramelized cauliflower with a nutmeg-accented mustard sauce -- decidedly exceptional all around. Other options include stone-ground Cheddar grits and brown butter mashed potatoes.

Coast's desserts are similarly simple. Apples wrapped in phyllo are served with homemade vanilla ice cream. Strawberry shortcake comes in the form of a crumbly shortbread topped with fresh whipped cream and strawberry slices.

Throughout the meal, our server was knowledgeable yet unobtrusive. York himself was also filling in where needed and humbly checking in on each table.

If you are a seafood fanatic like me, get to Coast and experience the wonderful flavors of simplicity.

Freelance writer and graphic designer Dana Craig considers dessert the most important food group. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at .