Dining Out Review: Balliceaux

From the sidewalk, I did a double take. Was there really no wall, or was I going to run into a sheet of glass and embarrass myself in front of this newest "it" spot's packed house?

Gingerly, I stepped forward, unprepared for such a suave entryway at a Fan District restaurant. Nope, the front wall was open to the sidewalk, letting the cool fall air blow through the narrow dining room.

A pale-green, textured banquette ran the length of one brushed concrete wall, which was sporadically dotted with narrow alcoves highlighting minimalist flower arrangements with warm backlighting.

As I made my way to the back, practically walking into the bustling wait station, I was shocked to find a chic lounge area. Its centerpiece was a long narrow table begging for large groups of Richmond's social set to grace it with basil-infused martinis and snifters of top-shelf bourbon.

There was simply no way this haute hideaway was once Bogart's infamously dingy yet adored backroom where I used to watch bands while munching on tater tots.

If you haven't heard, Balliceaux, the new spot occupying the former Lombardy Street music lover's hole-in-the-wall, is the place to be and with good reason. The renovation and décor alone are worth the trip.

Balliceaux has nailed the difficult meshing of big-city chic with Richmond's signature unpretentiousness. Stilettos and sandals canmingle in harmony here.

If you haven't determined by now, I adore this place. I love the vibe, the confident yet reserved swagger of the bartenders, the servers who may be overloaded but never make you feel rushed and, of course, the cocktail list. I recommend Hemmingway's Revenge, a pucker-inducing concoction of lime, grapefruit juice, rum and vanilla syrup.

But now we get to the part where my love is tested -- the consistency of the menu. We all know a restaurant can't survive on vivacity and vodka alone. The menu must wow as much as, if not more than, everything else.

After several visits, ranging from happy hours to a birthday party for 15 to small dinners with friends, my reactions have ranged from delight to disillusionment.

Balliceaux's menu is clearly trying to break the mold of Richmond's typical culinary style. You won't find fried calamari or anything along the lines of fancy comfort food. Options range from toasted coconut whelk fritters served with grapefruit ceviche ($12) to crispy seared pork belly with celery-bean sprout fritters ($17).

I've enjoyed the tandoori-fried cauliflower ($8) on several occasions. The spice in the breading, along with the peppery nest of pappadam, contrasts nicely with a cooling chickpea salad and cucumbers.

However, house-made ricotta and melon ($9), served with local honey and sesame crackers, isn't much more impressive than what I can get off a grocery-store salad bar.

The artisan cheese plate ($10-$15), served with seasonal preserves and thin, crispy breadsticks, is an average yet satisfying option for cheese lovers, although I wish it were served with more than three breadsticks and a little more menu description.

Entrées are all over the map. The cremini mushroom carbonara ($15) is a surprise hit. Smoked tomatoes add complex depth to the combination of bucatini, ricotta and eggs, although I wouldn't consider it traditional carbonara.

The heritage burger's incredibly juicy and flavorful Gryffon's Aerie Devonshire beef ($10) is dumbed down by a boring roll and everyday french fries.

The forest mushroom and asparagus tart ($11), however, is excellent. The hefty puff pastry, tantalizingly earthy collection of mushrooms and crisp asparagus add up to a filling treat.

The crispy seared halibut ($20) is crispy and seared, but beyond that, there isn't much flavor. Pistou, similar to pesto but without the pine nuts, adds a little pizazz, but the overly grilled and soggy vegetables on the side don't justify the price.

Balliceaux has too much going for it -- a deliciously unique vibe, well-trained staff and nonstop crowds -- for its menu to be so disappointingly inconsistent. Let's hope it simply needs a little more time to iron out the kinks, because this is a place Richmond cannot afford to lose.