Quality of Magnolia’s wine, beer choices outshines menu

I like wine. He likes beer. I like sampling my way through an array of small plates. He likes
sticking to one entrée, preferably without my fork making its way
over for a taste.

So when I can’t pick our dinner destination with a simple, “We’re going here tonight because it’s for a review,“ my mind implodes a little when trying to find a place that will satisfy both of us.

While strolling through the Village Shopping Center late last year, I noticed the newly opened Magnolia’s Wine Bar & Bistro, an offshoot of The Village Fine Wine & Cigar, the long-established retail spot for western Henrico County oenophiles.

After giving the menu a cursory glance, I thought, “Aha! This could be the spot!“ They have wine, but not just any wine—75 varietals available by full glass, half-glass, bottle or case, and a 48-bottle wine preservation system. They have beer, but not just any beer—68 craft beers, including 12 25-ounce Belgian ales. They have small plates and entrées, but not just any ... well, you get the picture. Bottom line: I was excited.

So we returned recently on a Thursday to find a handful of couples lining the long, dark bar. Wrought iron-accented lanterns hung overhead, casting a mellow glow across the rich woodwork that encased the preservation system. Nearby, high tables were filled with friends nibbling from small plates.

We snagged a table at the back overlooking the outdoor seating in the shopping center’s breezeway and scanned the wine list. Westerly Viognier 2006 ($11 glass, $42 bottle), Alphonse Mellot Sancerre 2007 ($14/$46), Roger Perrin Ch»teauneuf-Du-Pape 2006 ($27.50/$83) ... where to start?

We decided to pair different wines with a variety of small plates to get the full experience, although entrées, such as grilled duck breast with chipotle-apricot glaze ($30), are also available.

Lamb chops glazed in a merlot- mission fig cocktail ($11) were artfully presented atop yellow lentils and braised spinach. The glaze added a honeylike sweetness that offset the greens’ saltiness. However, they were a bit oily. L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot 2005 ($14/$43) was a thoughtfully recommended pairing.

Citrus-poached Maine lobster ($15), on the other hand, was a disappointment. It was served at a straight-out-of-the-fridge temperature, and the shell had not been adequately removed from the meat. Corn and cilantro flan reminded me more of a kernel-studded, mayo-laden potato salad than anything resembling delicately savory custard. Although, Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2007 ($8/$30) enhanced the flavors.

The Conicsville Ostrich Burgundy ($12) was mellow compared with our other choices. Laced with carrots, celery, tomatoes and onions, this classic French stew was subtly redolent of herbs and wine, but it simply didn’t wow. The ostrich meat, naturally low in fat and thereby easy to overcook, was chewy. Perhaps if we had tried it with the suggested varietal— Montes Alpha Cabernet 2006 ($10/$35)—the flavors would have been enhanced? Doubtful.

However, the pan-seared, cumin- dusted diver scallops ($11) were textbook perfection. Served over a beet-potato mash, two beautifully rosy scallops flaunted the magical combination of a soft, succulent interior and an expertly seared, expertly seasoned crust. All the flavors blended wonderfully. Cakebread Chardonnay 2007 ($19.50/ $59) paired nicely, although I was a bit taken aback by the price discrepancy between glass and bottle.

Luckily, we saved room for dessert because our Southern strawberry shortcake ($7) was excellent. Grand Marnier Chantilly cream was sandwiched between two oh- so-moist, oh-so-buttery cake rounds and topped with fresh strawberries and mint. Divine.

Throughout our meal, service was reserved yet attentive. Our waitress was helpful when asked for suggestions and made sure everything was paced properly.

Magnolia’s makes significant strides in bringing a true wine bar to Richmond; however, it still has kinks to address. The quality of the wine and beer selections outshines the menu, no matter how beautifully presented each plate is. Align these two, and wine and beer drinkers will finally have the perfect place to share.

Rating: ½
Where: 7021 Three Chopt Road (Village Shopping Center)
Phone: (804) 673-9463
Noise level: average to high; small space, depends on crowd
Vegetarian options: salads
Smoking: smoke-free
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday,
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday; brunch on Sundays Prices: small plates, $9$15; entrées, $16-$35
Check for two: $62 (including four shared small plates, shared dessert and tax)