Making latkes: ‘a feel thing’

The kitchen of Keneseth Beth Israel was filled with the wonderful aroma of potatoes and onions frying in simmering oil.

"You need to eat some latkes," said Ilene Paley, presenting a plateful of hot potato cakes, assembled on a paper towel.

She didn't have to suggest twice.

Latkes are a traditional food eaten by Jews during Hanukkah, the eight-day festival of lights that began Sunday. It commemorates the rededication of the holy temple in Jerusalem in 165 B.C. and the miracle of oil. When Jews returned to the ransacked temple, they wanted to relight the menorah but discovered enough oil for only one day. They lighted the menorah, which, miraculously, remained lit for eight days, enough time for new oil to be prepared.

It is traditional during Hanukkah to eat fried foods because of the significance of oil to the holiday. That's where latkes come in.

I'd never eaten latkes, but I will vouch for their goodness. They're generally made with grated potatoes, chopped onions, eggs, matzo meal (or flour or bread crumbs), a little salt and pepper, and, of course, oil. They're often eaten with applesauce, sour cream or, Paley's preference, ketchup. I thought they were just fine plain. They're best served hot, right out of the pan.

"Simple ingredients, coming together to be really great," said Paley, who lives in Henrico County.

Paley has been making latkes "for years and years." She offered to make a batch for Recipe Exchange and to share her recipe, although she's been making them so long she's long past using written instructions. She makes latkes all during the year, and at least a couple of times during Hanukkah. She attends Keneseth Beth Israel on Patterson Avenue, where she suggested we meet, and is one of the organizers of the synagogue's annual food festival that will be held Feb. 15-16 (http://www.kbirichmond.org).

Latkes were on the menu at their last festival, and, she recalled, "As fast as we could make them, that's how fast they sold."

Paley likes using two kinds of potatoes -- she used russet and Red Skin Golden the other day when she was accompanied in the kitchen by her 2-year-old granddaughter, Sheindy Paley -- and once all the ingredients are in the bowl, she likes to mix everything by hand. That way she can determine if she needs to add more matzo meal.

"To me, it's a feel thing," she said.

Variations on basic latke recipes abound.

Richmonder Clare Schapiro, wife of Richmond Times-Dispatch political reporter Jeff E. Schapiro, makes traditional potato latkes and also parsnips latkes.

"Everybody goes crazy for them," she said of the crispier parsnips version, "because they're a little unusual. I wouldn't say they're spicy, but they've got a more interesting taste than conventional latkes."
Send your recipe requests, answers and your best recipes to Bill Lohmann at or P.O. Box 85333, Richmond, VA 23293. Please put "Recipe Exchange" in the subject field or on the envelope and include your name, address and a daytime phone number.