Super King: Go slow, sample lots

We were having a relaxed Saturday lunch at the Super King Buffet when it struck me: This is about my favorite restaurant in all of Richmond.

I don't know why I hadn't figured that out before.

Don't get me wrong. This is no gourmet restaurant. Few things on the buffet are truly outstanding, and there's a lot to avoid. But if you're willing to take the time to sample a lot of things, and take along a friend or two, I can't think of a better place to have a long lunch.

Here's why:

It's got a sushi section. Admittedly, all-you-can-eat sushi is generally several grades below the stuff they serve in "true" sushi places. But the Super King sushi has consistently surprised me with its freshness. The varieties are limited, as you would expect -- don't go looking for tuna -- but what they serve is really good. I particularly like the mackerel, which I will be the first to admit isn't for everyone.

And if raw fish isn't for you, they've got a variety of California (Virginia?) rolls as well.

We like the Vietnamese spring rolls, which are not to be confused with the fried variety. They are a tad overstuffed, but have a fresh, crisp flavor and texture.

We like the soups, especially the mushroom-intense hot and sour soup.

We like the scary Dim Sum section in the back. There you will find exotic steamed dishes including tripe, chicken's feet and gluey shrimp dumplings. We love any restaurant with food we've never seen before -- even if we lack the nerve to try it all.

And we love the diversity of the customers. It's like eating in the United Nations cafeteria. And everyone seems so happy -- really, who can be grumpy eating at a Chinese buffet?

The goal of our Working Lunches is to keep the meal under $10, and Super King barely manages it with a price of $8.95 per person for lunch, Mondays through Saturdays. Prices are higher at night and on Sundays. And if you try to take it all in on a 30-minute lunch break, you have missed the point.

This is a place for slowing down and sampling small portions of lots of things over conversation. Make sure to stroll next door to the bookstore after you're done.

Tell the boss you got stuck on the interstate or something.
Contact Lee Barnes at (804) 775-8129 or .