Enchanting eatery isn’t all show

Desire a tasty lunch and quick service amid a fun décor? Look no further than Tara Thai in Short Pump Town Center.

Decorated with an oceanic theme, this enchanting eatery isn't all show. It has racked up awards for its cuisine, which isn't too expensive despite a recent increase. (The Web site prices haven't been updated.)

Appetizers range from $4.95 for golden triangles, which are fried tofu with sweet and sour sauce, to $6.95 for fried calamari. There are soups and salads for less than $5. Entrées average around $10.

Once you've ordered, check out the deep-sea ambience.

Jellyfish (or are they octopus?) lamps hang from the ceiling. An aqua wall, curving like a ship, includes five portholes. Customers peer "out" at lovely fish, a whale and, oh, look, a scuba diver!

Shells encase the hostess stand, and the tables, separated by dividers resembling water splashes, feature bright coral-reef images. You might not discover all the surprising, clever touches before the divine-smelling food arrives.

My waiter was at my table inquiring about my beverage order a couple of minutes after I sat down.

My hot meal arrived about five minutes after I ordered it.

I went for the Deep Sea dish, which includes shrimp, scallops, squid and mussels stir-fried with celery, onions, scallions and egg in a curry sauce.

For $11.99, it was huge on deliciousness, although a bit sparse on seafood.

Still, the sauce was so good I sopped it up with the accompanying carrots, red cabbage and lettuce salad.

Before settling on the Deep Sea entrée, I considered ordering Pla Dook Pad Ped, which features catfish fillets sautéed with Thai eggplants and exotic spices for $11.95, or Goong Phuket, grilled black tiger shrimp topped with chicken sauce and crabmeat, also for $11.95.

My only disappointment with my choice is that I wanted fewer red and green peppers (which were not advertised on the menu) and more "deep sea" on my dish.

I assume the sour economy has raised the prices and reduced the dish size. Still, I left pleased, and with many minutes to spare on my lunch hour.

Contact Robin Farmer at (804) 649-6312 or .