Some choices to go with the turkey

If you're looking for a wine to complement your Thanksgiving meal that goes beyond a Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, then a Cru Beaujolais can fill the bill, or better, fill the glass.

Cru Beaujolais wines, those that come from 10 specific growing areas of Beaujolais, are flavorful, fruity, though not sweet, and definitely first-rate.

Don't buy into that $9.99 Beaujolais Nouveau that will hit the shelves tomorrow. It's a light, lollipop wine that will disappoint if paired with a fine meal.

A Cru Beaujolais, however, can be a taster's delight. It's a red wine that a white-wine drinker can appreciate. It's a red wine that can, in some cases, satisfy a drinker's penchant for tannins, those naturally occurring substances in grape skins, seeds and stems.

Ross Mattis, co-owner of Barrel Thief Wine Shop & Café, takes it from here about this unheralded and underappreciated wine from the southern tier of France's Burgundy region.

"We are absolutely fanatical about Beaujolais at Barrel Thief, particularly the Crus," said Mattis, who, along with Ned Wheeler, owns two Barrel Thiefs: one in the Shoppes at Westgate across from the Short Pump Town Center and one soon-to-be-opened shop at 5805 Patterson Ave.

"These wines have long been misunderstood since the advent of the major marketing push with Beaujolais Nouveau in the mid-'80s. Originally conceived as a way to spread awareness of the region to a broader market, the early release of the very youthful and unstructured Nouveau has, ironically, served to color public opinion against Beaujolais.

"The mere mention of the word 'Beaujolais' still has a tendency to evoke memories of the thin, dilute and unripe Nouveau reeking of industrial 'banana' yeasts and bubble gum. It is very important that wine lovers understand that Beaujolais has so much more to offer than Nouveau."

That it does, and certain general characteristics can be found in the Crus.

"It is important to first understand that each of the 10 Crus in Beaujolais has its own particular character and appeal," Mattis said. "Most generally, Cru Beaujolais is where one will find the most concentration, finesse and charm in all of Beaujolais.

"Crafted entirely from the Gamay grape, Cru Beaujolais is on the lighter side of red wine generally -- a country cousin to Pinot Noir but no less serious or refined. The wines of Juliénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent tend to be characterized by fuller flavors, riper tannins and greater mineral concentration. Brouilly, Fleurie and Saint-Amour tend to be somewhat silkier, softer and more delicate, with floral and lighter fruit notes." (Chénas, Chiroubles, Cote de Brouilly and Régnié are the other Crus.)

Why do they seem to go so well with Thanksgiving meals?

"Just as dry rosè seems to be crafted for the smells and experiences of summer, Cru Beaujolais truly embodies the autumnal spirit of Thanksgiving. The traditional Thanksgiving fare of turkey and stuffing, casseroles of beans or squash, roasted root vegetables, and cranberry sauce marries beautifully with Cru Beaujolais, because the wines provide the lift of high-toned red fruit flavors and the spicy aromas of dried leaves and earth without dominating the palate or overpowering the flavors of the food."

Mattis has one plea.

"For those looking for a good, inexpensive Pinot Noir, we implore you to start exploring Cru Beaujolais," he said. "Gamay can achieve incredible heights while still providing the soft fruit and lighter tannin one seeks in the more noble Pinot. The difference is that the barrier for entry [price] in the world of great Gamay is significantly lower than in Burgundy or cult Oregon Pinot Noir. In Beaujolais, one can have the absolute best for $20 to $30. We think the value is undeniable."

Remember, Cru is the key. Your wine merchant will know.
"Vines & Wines" appears alternate weeks in the Food section. Contact Jack Berninger at .