Green tomatoes signal the end of summer

Every time the hubby and I hit the local market and that big pile of green tomatoes catches his eye, as if almost on cue he announces, "We have got to make fried green tomatoes!"

More often than not, I acquiesce.

Green tomatoes are a wonderful ending to summer, and along with starring roles in relishes, tomato pies and piquant soups, these once-a-year treats are made for frying. Whether you choose to fry them in flour, cornmeal or both, green tomatoes are an irresistible addition to any fall menu.

Choosing properly unripe green tomatoes is fairly easy, although not as simple as you might think. For starters, you want to make sure your green tomatoes are actually unripe. Some, such as Green Zebra tomatoes, are bred to stay green and are actually fully ripe even though they may not appear to be.

The touch test is the best way to assess how properly under-ripe the tomatoes are. They should be firm to the touch and fully green without any hint of yellow, orange or red color. Also, go for the larger tomatoes. Smaller ones tend to have a very strong acidic taste, which isn't always welcome, depending on your recipe. A green tomato should be at least 5 ounces or so, about the same size of a fully ripe red one.

When frying, I use cast-iron almost exclusively since it is one of the best conductors of high heat and can give the fried tomato a super-crunchy crust. Also, as with all types of frying, try not to crowd the tomatoes since this will lead to steaming, causing them to soften. An expertly fried green tomato should be crispy (not greasy) on the outside, and soft and juicy on the inside.

For breading, there are many options. I like a combination of half flour and half cornmeal. Cornmeal adds that requisite crunch while the flour helps the breading adhere to the tomato. I've also fried them in bread crumbs, cracker crumbs, even cornflakes. The style of breading is really up to you.

Dipping the tomatoes in some kind of liquid before breading is highly recommended. I often use plain milk, but buttermilk is also a nice option since it adds a little twang. Some folks prefer dipping their tomatoes in beaten egg before frying, which will create a puffier breading.

When it comes to oil, I'm a canola or vegetable-oil gal. However, I do have one secret ingredient that, in my humble opinion, takes a good fried tomato to outstanding heights - bacon grease. Some of you, like me, may have grown up with a little vat of the stuff resting next to the oven ready to add to a pot of green beans or a pan of cornbread.

Adding a tablespoon or two to your cooking grease when making green tomatoes elevates the flavor with just a hint of smokiness and saltiness. When cooking up your next batch of bacon, save the grease for frying, and then set aside a few strips of cooked bacon to make a fried green tomato and bacon sandwich. Trust me. It's heaven.

Other serving options for fried green tomatoes include topping them with a dollop of homemade remoulade, aioli, corn relish or chowchow for a simple first course.

For breakfast, a fried green tomato eggs Benedict really hits the spot with the tomatoes standing in for the English muffins.

Whip up an easy dinner salad by serving fried tomatoes over mixed greens topped with buttermilk dressing or crumbled goat cheese, or keep things simple and eat them plain with plenty of salt and extra napkins.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to or visit http://www.theaccidentalchef.net.