Experimentation creates an impeccable blue-cheese dressing

I've been experimenting with homemade blue-cheese dressing for quite some time, and I've gotten so spoiled that I cannot bear to drizzle my veggies in anything but the real, homespun stuff.

I've played around with several recipes - some that are more sour-cream based, some that are primarily mayonnaise and some rooted in buttermilk. I've added fresh herbs and I've omitted them. I've made thick, creamy dressings as well as more liquid-based ones. I've mixed by hand and with the food processor. Most importantly, I worked with all types of blue cheese, from the quick and easy pre-crumbled kind to the high-end import cheeses priced by the pound.

What I've discovered through all of this experimentation is that there are many variations, and the style of your blue-cheese dressing is simply a matter of personal taste.

I like tangy anything, so buttermilk was a natural choice over using just mayonnaise or sour cream. However, if buttermilk isn't your thing and you relish the tang as I do, you can incorporate a splash of white vinegar or cider vinegar. Like many dressings and sauces, it's about creating that delicate balance between creamy, tangy, salty and sweet, so feel free to tinker around.

There are a few sure-fire tips and suggestions I recommend.

First, avoid the pre-crumbled blue cheese sold in containers. It's much easier to work with and it's cheaper, but it tends to boast less flavor than blue cheese sold in wedges.

Also, there's no rule saying you have to use only classic blue cheese (such as Maytag or Danablu, which are most common). I've made my dressings and dips with gorgonzola (which adds a nice nutty flavor), French Roquefort, even English Stilton. Each cheese has ever-so-slightly altered the flavor of the dressing, so experiment and see what works for your particular recipe.

While I'm on the subject of cheese, let me warn you about salt. In case you've noticed, most recipes for blue-cheese dressing do not call for salt. This is because many of the ingredients, especially the cheese itself, are already salty. If you plan to add a dash of vinegar or lemon juice (which naturally enhance salty flavors), you can end up with a dressing that will pucker your lips - and not in a good way - so don't add salt until you've tasted first.

Speaking of ingredients, after numerous attempts to discover the perfectly balanced dressing, I've found that one addition in particular really adds some zing - Worcestershire sauce. Just a couple of drops is all you need. Perhaps it's the molasses, a common ingredient in most Worcestershire sauces, that balances the dip with just a hint of sweetness.

Lastly, play around with ratios. For a dip, add less buttermilk and more mayonnaise, sour cream or blue cheese. If you're looking for a dressing (to toss into a chopped salad, for example), simply add more buttermilk. Like most basic cooking, the recipe is not an exact science, and your taste buds are the best resource over weights and measurements.

Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to or visit http://www.theaccidentalchef.net.