ACCIDENTAL CHEF: Moulard duck a unique specialty in southwest France

I recently had the pleasure of visiting the Aquitaine region in the southwestern part of France. It's a unique and beautiful place that oozes a rich and fierce history.

There are 12thand 13th-century castles that dot the banks of the Dordogne River and quaint villages and "bastides" (walled towns) that boast incredible outdoor markets brimming with local culinary specialties unique to this region of France.

Perigourdin black truffles, Agen prunes, tender Bazas beef, sweet, tart Périgord strawberries, salt-cured Bayonne ham, Espelette chili peppers (a legacy of the Spanish conquest) and, of course, plenty of wine are but a few of the gastronomic delights that await hungry travelers who venture to Aquitaine.

Yet there is one local specialty that is so divine and versatile, one could argue it defines the culinary focus of the region -- that star is Moulard duck.

A cross between Muscovy duck and Peking duck, the Moulard is a foie gras-producing duck that is bred in groups on wide-open spaces and is the foundation for duck confit (duck leg poached in its own fat), duck rillettes (duck fat and meat pounded to a paste), pate, seared Magret duck breast and, of course, foie gras (fatty duck liver).

While visiting the region, I was fortunate enough to experience a one-of-a-kind Aquitaine-style feast at the Chateau des Baudry, a 17th-century mansion set in the vineyards and owned by Chef Helene Boulet and Francois Passebon. Now a chateau boasting five guest rooms, des Baudry's charm is most clearly reflected by Boulet's cooking, which is an honest and delightful exploration of the region's gastronomy.

Boulet culls local specialties straight from her garden and from local producers (often friends) in the area.

Our meal began with cold carrot soup topped with fresh cumin cream. From there, we moved on to a pate of foie gras stuffed with fresh, local figs served with fresh baquette. Next up was the star of the show, a classic duck cassoulet consisting of duck confit, sausages and flageolet beans (a small, green kidney-shaped bean available only in the summer).

Cassoulet, like similar-styled casseroles, is unique to the South of France. Often consisting of duck meats, sausages and some type of bean (often white beans), cassoulet is a hearty, stick-to-your-ribs dish that reflects the simple yet incredibly flavorful cooking France is known for, and Boulet's version is no different. Her entire meal not only paid well-deserved homage to the cuisine of the region but also was a magical culinary experience -- one that still lingers on my tongue as I write these words.

I found it quite ironic that when after dinner, I asked Boulet to describe her style of cooking and she replied "peasant food" as she walked back to her kitchen.

So, this is Aquitaine, I thought, as I savored my last Périgord strawberry with a glass of sweet Saussignac -- a spectacular region built from castles, kings and queens, yet one that reigns in the hearts and bellies of its peasants.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to or visit http://www.theaccidentalchef.net.

Duck, duck, goose -- a unique specialty in Southwest FranceMakes 6 servings.