Cooking with cast iron is not difficult

DEAR ACCIDENTAL CHEF: For my wedding, my grandmother gave me one of her antique cast-iron skillets. I've never used cast iron, and I'm not really sure how to care for it. Also, the skillet has started to rust, so I'm not sure if it's usable anymore. Can you help me? -- Confused About Cast Iron

DEAR CONFUSED: You are one lucky gal. A well-weathered cast-iron pan is like hitting the cooking jackpot. The great thing about cast iron is that the more culinary wear and tear it receives, the better it is.

Like you, I was bequeathed my grandmother's (and my great-grandmother's) cast-iron cookware, and over the years I have used it for a multitude of purposes. Not only is cast iron gorgeous (especially when hung on the wall or from a kitchen ceiling), but it imparts a high-heat sear unlike anything else.

But you've got to know how to take care of cast iron to preserve its longevity.

The most important rule is to avoid moisture. Cast iron is extremely porous, and when it comes in contact with liquid (such as water), it will absorb it. This can lead to rusting. So how do you clean cast iron if water is its natural enemy?

For starters, it's OK to simply wipe the surface of your cast iron and let it go at that. Little bits of leftover burned goodies are what gives cast iron its "flavor," or seasoning. Leaving a little black or brown residue is fine and actually helps age your pan.

For especially messy clean-ups, you can sprinkle a coarse salt into the pan and use paper towels to scrub off the residue. This will usually do the trick, but if you still have gobs of stuck-on food, you can put about a quarter-inch of water in the pan and boil it. Then scrub it with a spatula to loosen any hardened bits.

Afterward, be sure to dry the skillet thoroughly (and I mean thoroughly). Then pour a little oil (preferably bacon grease or lard and not vegetable oil, which has a tendency to get sticky) onto a paper towel and wipe the entire pan, inside and out, including the handle. You should oil the pan after every use, whether or not it comes in contact with water. Allowing the oil to seep into the pan will not only keep away the rust but also help season it for future use.

If you've got rust to contend with, rub a little oil into the rusty spot with a cloth, which is good for small amounts. If you've got lots of rust, scrub the pan with salt and then apply oil. If you've got considerable rust, it might be time to replace the pan.

Never put ice-cold liquid into a hot skillet. This can cause the pan to split. Also, never wash cast iron in the dishwasher, as this is the quickest way to ensure rusting. Finally, avoid using any detergents on cast iron, as this will destroy the seasoning.

Luckily, most pans now come pre-seasoned, so home cooks don't have to worry about doing the initial seasoning, which can be time-consuming. However, if you find that your pan needs to be re-seasoned, simply wipe it with grease (again, bacon or lard is best) and place it in a preheated 275-degree oven. "Cook" the pan for 15 minutes, and then remove it and wipe out the excess grease. Return the pan to the oven and bake another two hours.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of "White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining" (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to or visit http://www.theaccidentalchef.net.