A Vietnam tradition: the bánh mi sandwich

A few weeks ago, a friend tipped me off to an Asian bakery in Richmond that serves traditional Vietnamese baguette sandwiches, also known as bánh mi (pronounced BUN-mee). These delectable submarine-shaped sandwiches consist of two slices of crusty French-style baguette that are brushed with a swipe of mayonnaise or butter, and can be filled with a variety of grilled meats (usually marinated pork), p»tés, sausages, coldcuts, even tofu or fried eggs. The sandwiches are then topped with sliced, pickled daikon radishes; shredded, pickled carrots; thinly sliced jalapeño; and fresh herbs, such as cilantro.

Sprinkle one of these tubular gems with a little fish sauce (nuoc mam) laced with minced bird’s-eye chili pepper and you’ve not only got yourself a little taste of heaven, but an authentic foray into the streets of Saigon.

In Vietnamese, the word bánh mi means “bread,“ and the sandwich itself is a culinary testament to the influence of French colonialism, which began in the mid-1800s. During this time, baguettes, along with cream, butter, paté, custards and coffee were introduced to the country, and over the years, consequently morphed into the many French-influenced Vietnamese dishes we know today.

Classic French-style crepes became Bán xèo, a rice flour/coconut crepe filled with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts, while a classic French asparagus velouté (a stock-enriched cream-based soup) gets a Vietnamese makeover with the addition of crabmeat, dried shrimp and fish sauce.

There are many bánh mi variations and options, whether you’re taking on the challenge of re-creating one of these sandwiches at home or ordering from a local Vietnamese bakery. In addition to the more common filling of pork or sliced paté, sandwiches can be stuffed with grilled chicken, sardines, even head cheese.

When ordering one of these baguettes at a Vietnamese bakery, never fear. Most establishments make life easy by listing each sandwich variation in English and Vietnamese along with a larger-than-life-photo to help you through the process. And the price cannot be beat. For a 12-inch sandwich, you’ll get set back $3, and many bakeries have a promotion of buy five, get one free to sweeten the deal that much more.

If you want to whip up your own bánh mi sandwiches at home, I suggest you give Andrea Nguyen’s recipe a try. Nguyen is author of the award-winning cookbook, “Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors” (Ten Speed Press, 2006). Her recipe for bánh mi, along with her cookbook in general, is a great way to introduce yourself to the flavors and history of Vietnam.

Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of “White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining” (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to or visit http://www.theaccidentalchef.net.