HOME Q&A

Q:We leave our patio chairs outdoors year-round, and the material has become discolored. Is there a way to clean them?

Answer: Let's talk about cleaning more than just your chairs, if we may.

To clean woven furniture, you'll need to get into and around those intricate weaves. And that requires a variety of brushes -- a new, rather than used, toothbrush (stiffer bristles); a small paintbrush with bristles cut down by half, to make them stiffer; and a medium-bristle brush.

Some experts recommend sharpening a dowel to pick out bits of dirt and debris, but the best tools are already sharpened -- try the wooden skewers used to make shish kebab.

After you have gotten the gunk and grime out of the weaves, vacuum thoroughly. Then, wash it using minimal amounts of a solution of two tablespoons of ammonia to two gallons of water. Clean in sections from top to bottom, then dry quickly to prevent the wicker from warping. Lay the piece on a clean canvas drop cloth; tip it so the tighter weaves are on top and the looser on the bottom, so the moisture runs down and away quickly.

If mere cleaning isn't enough, sand and repaint (following the manufacturer's suggestions). Spray paint may give better coverage in less time.

For aluminum chairs, grab a plastic scrub brush and dishwashing detergent at full strength and then scrub. Rinse thoroughly, then let dry.

For coated-aluminum pieces, experts also recommend full-strength dishwashing detergent, but using a sponge instead. Rinse completely, dry with a soft cloth, and then rub on car wax to polish, avoiding the fabric. If you get wax on the fabric, clean it quickly. Buff the metal after it dries.

Take a look at your old plastic furniture. Is it worth keeping?

If the chairs cost $2 each 10 years ago, you can find nicer ones for about the same price today. But if you opt to keep them, wash them with 3 tablespoons of powdered laundry detergent (or oxygenated bleach such as OxiClean) mixed in a gallon of warm water. A scrub brush will work, but avoid stiff-bristle brushes, which can scratch or gouge the plastic. Let the solution soak in for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly, then dry.

If cushions or seat webbing are washable, use warm, soapy water or a foam cleaner. Apply with a sponge, rinse and dry.

Wrought-iron furniture tends to rust, which is why it should always be covered if left outside in winter. If corrosion has already begun, use a wire brush on the metal lightly, to remove the rust but not the paint. Naval jelly, available at home centers and hardware stores, also can dissolve rust; some products become a primer that lets you apply protective paint in 24 hours. Rust stains can be removed with fine steel wool dipped in kerosene. Wear protective gloves and safety glasses and apply in the open, away from fire. To get into the joints, disassemble the furniture.

Got a mildewed patio umbrella? Open it and lay it on its side, then clean with oxygenated bleach in warm water -- though you should check the manufacturer's care suggestions. (Chlorine bleach will fade acrylics.) Use a soft-bristle brush; rinse with clean water and let dry.

. . .

Gail Short of Virginia offers a possible solution to a recent question about uneven heating and cooling in a tri-level:

"When we moved into our home eight years ago, we replaced the original 1970s heating and cooling system. We put in one heat pump and a three-zone system. Each floor has its own thermostat and panels in the ductwork that open and close according to which floor requires heat or air. Everything is controlled through a small box in a closet that oversees the whole operation. This has brought us great comfort and lower energy bills all these years. As I am always looking for ideas that help me out, I thought you might like to know and pass it along."

Have questions for Alan J. Heavens? E-mail or write him at The Inquirer, Box 8263, Philadelphia, PA 19101.