What makes a restaurant stand out (in a good way) isn’t usually what it’s lacking.  However, in the case of Plaza Mexico, the new south-of-the-border eatery on Main Street in the Fan District, the lack of almost anything Mexican-themed is exactly what caught my eye.  Thank goodness it did. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have given this place a second glance.

From the sidewalk, I did a double take. Was there really no wall, or was I going to run into a sheet of glass and embarrass myself in front of this newest “it” spot’s packed house?  Gingerly, I stepped forward, unprepared for such a suave entryway at a Fan District restaurant. Nope, the front wall was open to the sidewalk, letting the cool fall air blow through the narrow dining room.

It’s about time someone realized that a restaurant overlooking the James River would be, oh, I don’t know, an absolutely brilliant and wildly popular idea. Considering that the river is such a defining element of Richmond’s essence, I’m shocked that its shoreline isn’t clogged with scenic eateries.

It seems Richmond has finally embraced tapas. No, I’m not talking about the myriad restaurants taking everyday fare, minimizing the portions and slapping the “tapas” moniker on them to seem more exotic.  I’m talking about the traditional Spanish snack typically eaten in bars to stave off hunger before that country’s usual 10 p.m. dinnertime, little bites jazzed up with Marcona almonds, morcilla (Spanish blood sausage) and white anchovies, not simply chorizo and Manchego cheese.

Rating:  Where: 200 Towne Center West Blvd., #601

I have no idea what’s in the water these days, but Richmond’s new restaurant scene is obsessed with the letter “B.“ From Belle Vie, The Boathouse, Bouchon to Balliceaux, the latest restaurant chatter is one big exercise in alliteration.  Lost somewhere in this mix is The Belvidere at Broad, a new spot at the west end of the First Friday dining lineup. I say lost because my regular sources of restaurant gossip—foodie friends, alert readers, chatty servers haven’t been saying much about this three-month-old eatery.

If there ever were a concrete example of the old saying “Third time’s a charm,“ The Fat Goat comes pretty close.  This tiny, organically focused eatery on Lakeside Avenue, the latest reincarnation of Zed Café, has had almost as many chefs as it has years in business (about three).

“We’re The Hard Shell of Carytown,“ our server said within the first few moments of “What can I getcha?“ talk.  Water Grill may be Carytown’s newest dining destination, but it’s also the latest addition to the Richmond Restaurant Group’s lineup, which includes hotspots deLux, Europa and you got it—The Hard Shell.

If you didn’t know much about Indian food, it wouldn’t be too far-fetched to think it’s only consumed via buffet.  Almost every local Indian restaurant seems to have some sort of all-you-can-eat deal featuring the same things: chicken tikka masala, palak paneer, rogan josh, etc.  I’m not saying these dishes aren’t good. It’s just that for a cuisine marked by its complexity and intricate use of spices, a basic buffet feels like a disservice.

If it were socially acceptable, I would have danced and skipped my way out of a recent dinner at the newly renovated Lemaire. Heck, I could have done a cartwheel or two.  Lemaire, the award-winning culinary crown jewel of The Jefferson Hotel, closed Jan. 1 after 23 years of being the restaurant in town for special-occasion formality and out-of-town-guest impressing.

As summer comes to an end and I sit at my computer nowhere near the beach, I yearn for the uncontrived, leisurely atmosphere I associate with beach bars. While I haven’t had sand between my toes in the past few weeks, I have experienced Sunset Grill.  Sunset Grill would make a great beach bar . . .  if beach bars were in Manakin-Sabot, sported white tablecloths and, most importantly, served some darn good steak.

“Hey, guys! I’ve got a great idea! Let’s leave downtown, pass umpteen viable ethnic restaurants, and drive all the way to Hanover County to check out a Thai place in a nondescript shopping center!“  “Who’s with me?!“  No surprise I was met by blank stares from my city-dwelling friends, a valid reaction considering there are four Thai restaurants in Carytown alone, not to mention a handful of similarly good finds within a few miles.

Excellent service, a contemporary yet lush ambience and an elegant menu inspired by the cuisines of France and Belgium? Sounds like living the good life to me. Good thing Belle Vie, “beautiful life” in French, fills the bill.  That is, if you don’t go there starving and you’re not too worried about the tab.

Rating:  Where: 1244 Alverser Plaza

Drive through Short Pump on any evening around dinnertime, and no doubt you’ll find the parking lots of just about every chain restaurant filled. Chili’s, Bertucci’s, Cheesecake Factory, Applebee’s—Short Pump’s got them all.  With so many local eateries offering distinctly Richmond dining adventures, I prefer to spend my time supporting our city’s restaurateurs rather than these national corporations. However, I’ll gladly visit a chain if the experience it offers has an element of geniality, not a staff and kitchen operating on autopilot.