CHILDRESS Rik and Melissa Obiso are living proof that wine is taking root in Montgomery County. Out their back door, the buds have set on the grape vines for Eclipse Winery, which is not yet in production but on its way. The Montgomery County couple is one of several with ambitions to make wine. Right now, winery maps list no wineries in Montgomery County, even though Virginia has a burgeoning wine industry.

Mount Vernon Fall Wine Festi val: Oct. 2-4, 6-9 p.m. each day (Oct. 3 is sold out); 17 wineries; $30; Information: http://www.mountvernon.org
  Carytown Wine Festival: Oct. 4, noon-6 p.m.; 11 wineries; $15 advance, $20 at gate, $10 designated driver, children younger than 12 free with a paid adult. Information: http://www.carytownrva.org/fw.php

FLOYD They might not pick as many white grapes at Villa Appalachia in Floyd County this fall, but the harvest should make for better wine. The cool weather has given the Italian-style vineyard’s white grapes good aroma, winemaker Susanne Becker said this week. But persistent rain in May washed away much of the pollen and blossoms needed to produce fruit.

http://www.vafoodandwine.com
  Horse and Hound Wine Festival: Johnson’s Orchard, Bedford; eight wineries; Saturday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; $10 advance, $15 at gate, under 12 $5, dogs $5; information:
http://www.bedfordwine.com
  Cajun Zydeco: Lake Anna Winery; Saturday 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.; $15 for wine tasting and entertainment, $30 for wine tasting, food and entertainment (reservations required for food); information: http://www.lawinery.com or (540) 895-5085

Wine lovers twirled their glasses between sips and raved about quality and unique taste yesterday at the first Virginia Wineworks Wine Festival in Albemarle County. “For me, it’s a lot about: What can I eat with this wine?“ said Therese Verkerke, 21, adding that good wine must have a refreshing taste that’s “not too sweet.“ Verkerke’s mother, Tracy Verkerke, is a partner for Well Hung Vineyards in Charlottesville, one of nine vineyards offering dozens of wine samples yesterday.

Moonlight Magic Festival: June 12, James River Cellars Winery, 11008 Washington Highway, Glen Allen; 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; $30 advance, $40 at door; benefits the VCU Massey Cancer Center; information: http://www.jamesrivercellars.com or (804) 827-0642
  Summer Celebration Wine Festival: June 13, Lee Hall Mansion, Newport News; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 11 wineries; $15 advance, $20 at gate, $10 nontasters; information: http://www.leehall.org or (757) 888-3371

With temperatures yesterday reaching the low 90s, thousands worked up a healthy sweat while sampling from 22 Virginia wineries at the 18th annual James River Wine Festival. Wine was plentiful, but shade was not on the festival grounds at the Innsbrook Corporate Center in western Henrico County. Putting their Army skills to use, retired Lt. Col. Justin Porto, 54, and retired Master Sgt. John Modrich, 49, fashioned a tent out of umbrella chairs, a quilt and PVC pipe found in nearby woods. Army Capt. Heather Andrews, 36, and Christina Bleck, 50, took refuge from the sun beneath the makeshift shade.

Lovingston Winery is a small operation that makes about 1,200 cases a year, but there’s nothing small about its wines. Take its 2005 Estate Reserve, for example. This blend of 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Franc is a knock-your-socks-off, palate-pleasing delight. “It’s expressive yet delicate; layered without being too busy,“ said March Helms of Corks and Kegs in the Triangle Shopping Center. “After decanting, I found notes of dark chocolate, new leather and nice hints of mint on the nose. It has a nice mineral-graphite background, firm fruit and tight tannins.“

MAIDENS In one corner of his basement studio stands a $22,000 printer, state-of-the-art no less. Nearby, sit empty wine bottles and a wine glass, stained red, amid the clutter only an artist would collect. Original paintings and embellished giclées - prints from a digital source using inkjet printing - hang from the walls; paper prints sit here and there.

On cold winter evenings, stew is the meal to drive away the chills. Last week, beef stew was the preference. This time, it’s venison stew. Now comes the choice of drink; wine, of course. But what works for these hearty dishes? Jim Compton at J. Emerson’s Fine Wines & Cheese on Grove Avenue has some suggestions. “Full-bodied wines with good acidity to cut through the richness are perfect for hearty stews,“ Compton said. “The earthier the better, and the flavors should be straightforward, somewhat austere and not a muddle of different tastes in your mouth. Save those types of wines for cocktail parties.

Virginia ABC law 4.1-315 makes it illegal for a restaurant to allow a consumer to drink alcohol that he or she did not purchase on the premises. This means patrons are not allowed to bring their own wine into a restaurant and enjoy it with their meal. This law places a significant damper on the consumer’s ability to enjoy one of the commonwealth’s most recognized products in a very traditional manner. Most other states allow restaurant patrons to bring their own wine. In those states, restaurants sometimes charge a corkage fee which they adjust to offset any potential revenue loss resulting from not selling their own wine.

—Brad Hemp, Bella Vino,
  Stony Point Fashion Park
  Maipe Bonarda ($7.99): Bonarda is the second most planted grape in Argentina behind Malbec. The wine has an intense purple color with aromatic notes of smoke, violets and wild berries. It has a rich and round mouthfeel and smooth, velvety tannins. Great with heartier dishes: grilled meats, stews.

—Brad Hemp, Bella Vino,
  Stony Point Fashion Park
  Land of Fire White ($6.99): A versatile white and a crowd-pleaser from the Mendoza region of Argentina, this is a blend of 60 percent Chenin Blanc and 40 percent Chardonnay. It’s light, crisp and refreshing with floral aromatics and tropical flavors of pear, mango and quince. Unoaked with fresh acidity, it’s great with lighter fare, fish or as an aperitif.

Two wines from Virginia’s Barboursville Vineyards will be served at the Inauguration Conservation Gala on Monday to honor President-elect Barack Obama. Barboursville’s Octagon Eighth Edition 2005 has been selected as the red wine for the formal dinner, while the winery’s Cabernet Franc Reserve 2006 will be the red wine at the reception preceding it.

At age 18, John Paul Cheski drove to Portland, Ore., for a summer job selling books. The selling didn’t appeal to Cheski, but the Northwest area of the United States did. “I did fall in love with the place,“ said Cheski, a Mills Godwin High School and James Madison University graduate. “I could have stayed . . . but sided with reason and returned to JMU.“