Near New Orleans are plenty of plantations and swamp tours

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IF YOU GO
Jean Lafitte Swamp and airboat tours: 25 minutes from New Orleans; (504) 689-4186 or (800) 445-4109. Airboat, $54 ($70 with transportation from New Orleans). Swamp tour, $25 ($49 with transportation from New Orleans).

Laura Plantation: (888) 799-7690. Tours 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; admission $15 (about $50 with transportation).

Oak Alley: (800) 442-5539. Tours, $15, 10 a.m. to 4:40 p.m. Monday-Friday and until 5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday (about $50 with transportation). Overnight stays start at $130. Restaurant serves breakfast and lunch, 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Madewood: (985) 369-7151. Tours, $10. Bed-and-breakfast overnight, including candlelight dinner: Sunday-Thursday, $229 single, $259 double; Friday-Saturday, $259 single, $289 double.

A sampling of tour companies:
Cajun Pride Swamp Tours, (800) 467-0758.

Old River Road Plantation Adventure, (866) 671-8687.

Grayline Tours, (800) 535-7786.

Tours by Isabelle, (877) 665-8687.

New Orleans Cajun Encounters Tours, (866) 928-6877.

Louisiana Tour Company, (504) 689-3599.

NEW ORLEANS There's so much to do in New Orleans that a tourist might be forgiven for overlooking attractions just outside the city. But whether you're here for a festival or a convention, or just to party on Bourbon Street, consider adding a tour of a historic plantation or a swamp teeming with alligators to your itinerary.

Several of these attractions are well within an hour's drive of New Orleans. Jean Lafitte Swamp Tours, Laura Plantation and Oak Alley Plantation, among many others, are served by tour companies that offer pick-up and drop-off at French Quarter hotels. There's no need to rent a car, and you can do the tour in a half-day if you're squeezing it in between meetings, concerts or the eating and drinking that ordinarily takes up much of a tourist's time in New Orleans.

The swamp tours, south and downriver from New Orleans in the waterways and bayous that lead to the Gulf of Mexico, come in two varieties: fast and fun airboats that zip through the water, or relaxing scenic cruises on flat-bottomed barges.

My cruise with Jean Lafitte Swamp Tours traveled on a barge through manmade canals to Bayou Aux Carpes. The waterways are lined with green walls of willows, tupelo gum trees, and the knobby-kneed, moss-draped cypresses.

We passed a handmade wooden sign that read, "You are now entering gator country," and saw at least a half-dozen gators in the water. Passengers also got to handle a baby alligator onboard, for which the company has a special permit. Other wildlife in the area includes turtles, herons, egrets, cormorants and deer.

I booked a trip to see Laura Plantation, one of a half-dozen plantations on the Great River Road along the Mississippi River. The Laura tour starts in the Big House, completed in 1805, which does not appear as grand as other plantation homes you may have seen.

The house is raised off the ground, facing the water, with a broad roofed porch to take in the river breeze and provide shade. In the Creole tradition, it is multi-colored, with ochre exterior walls, a red roof, and trim in gray, green and mauve.

Sugar cane is still grown at Laura on 1,500 acres along the Mississippi River. Visit at harvest time between Columbus Day and Christmas, and you can chew on a freshly chopped stalk.

My van back to New Orleans stopped at Oak Alley, another well-known plantation along Great River Road. The driver announced a layover to wait for other passengers with enough time for lunch at the Oak Alley Restaurant. The Oak Alley mansion is quite grand, surrounded by imposing white classical columns, like some ancient Greek monument. But the restaurant is an unpretentious, affordable café with outstanding food.

I had the crawfish étouffée, served over fried eggplant, but the menu includes other traditional Louisiana fare like po-boy sandwiches, jambalaya and gumbo. I also had time for a stroll beneath the canopy of giant live oak trees, several hundred years old, that frame the front and back paths to the mansion. In English, the word "alley" evokes a small, dark space off a main street, but here the term "allee" refers to a grand tree-lined boulevard.

Oak Alley also offers overnight stays, as does Madewood Plantation, a bed-and-breakfast inn on Bayou Lafourche.

Other plantations include Destrehan, Houmas House, San Francisco, Evergreen, St. Joseph and Nottaway; check with the site or your hotel concierge on tour van options from New Orleans.

"There are a dozen or so plantations within a two-hour drive of New Orleans," said Mary Beth Romig, spokeswoman for the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau. "You could really spend the day visiting if you planned it well."

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